Tips

Bringing a second pet into your home

2012-01-25T00:01:00Z

Tips on how to keep the peace in your household

Even the most mild mannered mongrel can turn feral when a new dog or cat enters the picture. Warren Eckstein says there are some things you can do to help.

ONE OF WARREN'S most frequently asked questions is what to do about fighting between pets who live in the same household. Problems range from mild-mannered mongrels who turn into furious fireballs of nastiness when another dog enters the picture to dogs who tolerate each other but periodically have serious know-down-drag-out fights. There are also the James Dean-type doggies who seem to be okay on the surface, but on a deeper level you can tell there's something brewing. It's just a matter of time before there's a blowup.

Visions of two or more dogs living happily ever after are often shattered when pets take an instant dislike to each other. In the extreme case, owners may even have to make the awful choice as to who stays and who goes.

When properly introduced, dogs living together under one roof can learn to be best friends, and so can dogs and cats, dogs and birds, dogs and fish, even dogs and mice. It's simply a matter of negotiating their differences and desensitizing the offending pet to its housemate.

THE BIGGEST BOO BOO

Pet owners make their biggest mistake by just plunking down the new pet into Fido's space. In fact, any instant addition to the family, whether animal or human, may be enough to upset the balance in a dog's life.

To understand how they're feeling, think about how you would feel if someone suddenly and unexpectedly moved into your home on a long term basis. Life would become abruptly different: Schedules would change, food tastes would change, and privacy wouldn't be what it was. Presumably, humans are mature who are capable of rationalizing those differences... but even then, things don't necessarily go well for the most down-to-earth adult. Why should we assume that things would be smoother for dogs? Think about it this way: Any two or more animals, whether human, canine, feline or whatever, spending any great amount of time together are bound to run into problems and differences in opinion. The final result depends on the way things are approached.

NEUTRAL TURF:

Picture this: A perfectly happy, well-adjusted dog (Fido) living comfortably in his perfectly normal home and WHAM... someone comes home with a new puppy. With no preparation at all, this perfectly happy, well-adjusted dog has the rug pulled out from underneath him. Of course, he's going to protect "his" territory and "his" owners, starting off his relationship with the new dog on the wrong foot. Surprising Fido with a new dog by suddenly coming home with it is an AMAZINGLY common mistake.

You can substantially reduce the risk of trouble if you introduce your dogs to each other on neutral turf. If possible, arrange to bring Fido to a friend's home to meet his future housemate. Let them check each other out for a few minutes, and then take Fido back home - alone. Follow up with several more play sessions on neutral territory, always taking Fido home alone. When the dogs seem to be really enjoying each other's company, bring home the new dog! It'll be like Fido's best friend is moving in... and voila! everyone's there and happy.

Yea, it's not easy, and it takes a lot of time and effort, but it's better than dealing with an aggression problem later on.

SEPARATE BUT EQUAL TIME:

It's only natural that family members and visitors will want to coo over the new dog (especially if it's a puppy.) But try not to do that in front of your other dog. Save such special attention for private times, setting aside a few five-minute sessions alone with each pet. Prevent jealousy by having someone else play with the other pet, or putting him alone in a large closed-off room with tons of extraordinary special treats and goodies to help occupy him. (Be sure to turn on the TV or radio to help drown out your cooing over the new pet.) Then... switch places and spend 5 minutes the other way around, too!

IT'S PARTY TIME:

Make it seem that wonderful things happen to Fido whenever dog number 2 is on the scene. Exaggerate everything so that his new lifestyle, including his new housemate, seems to be the best thing that's ever happened to Fido. Every time Fido is around dog #2, make a fuss that he thinks it's a party just for him! If he loves roast beef, give him some when the other dog is around. This is called 'party-time association.' Dogs learn by association, and if Fido associates his new housemate with such fabulous fringe benefits, it will help them remember what fun life is when dog #2 is around.

Be sure there are plenty of toys to go around, too. Have plenty of toys scattered all over the house, and change them frequently. This can distract them from destructive thoughts and can prevent territory fights if there are too few toys to go around. After all, an occupied dog is an undestructive dog.

FOR ESPECIALLY DIFFICULT ONES:

If Fido simply doesn't seem to want to accept a new housemate, there are several slower, more deliberate steps you can take. First, find a tape recording (or make one) of dog sounds, and play it in the background. This will help desensitize Fido to sounds of another dog in the house. Play it at a soft volume and gradually increase the volume over a few days until he has no reaction to it any more.

Next, bring home a few items that carry the new odor of the new dog. Towels or pet bedding or ideal. Leave them around the house for Fido to find and replace them every few days with new items that have a stronger, fresher scent. During this process, make sure you're also rewarding him with the "party time" advice above.

Just before you bring the new pet home, install a very tall pet gate (or place one on top of the other) - high enough so that neither dog can jump over it. Let them live on opposite sides of the gate for a while - this will allow them to see and sniff each other without opening up an opportunity to fight outright. Don't worry if at first they snarl, growl and compete for your attention. Gradually, and it might be very slowly, the game will get old and they'll start to ignore each other.

When things seem safe, and behavior around the gate has been calm for a few weeks, take it down for a little while each day. Be sure each dog is securely restrained by a collar and leash. The good news - this simulates a more normal home environment. The bad news - they may backslide into the snarling and growling that ended a few weeks ago. But don't get discouraged. Know that this too, will run it's course, and as with any serious dog problem, you're going to experience setbacks. Eventually, they'll chill out in this scenario, too.

DON'T JUMP IN TOO FAST:

When pets are learning to adjust to each other, it can seem like a nuclear explosion. When this happens, owners need to be careful not to interfere too quickly. The sounds of a confrontation can be horrendous, but often looks and sounds so serious is simply your pets getting to know each other. Also, if you jump in too early, you may actually make the situation worse. But try to understand that dogs are like kids, and sometimes a quick tussle is more show than anything else, and may resolve itself more quickly than you think. (That said, it's better to jump in too early and break things up than to risk a serious fight, so if you think that the dogs are getting too aggressive, break them up and give them each some private space to cool down.)

PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE:

Don't expect these major adjustments to happen quickly. While some dogs are more flexible than others, and some have more accepting temperaments, some are also more stubborn or fixed in their ways than others. These sorts of changes can take weeks or even months before your pets even tolerate each other without a growl. Aggressive, nasty behavior may take the longest of any problem to rectify. Keep at it and you'll more than likely be pleased with the results. You'll have good days, bad days, and days you want to get in the car and drive to Alaska... but remember, as with any training regimen, consistency and patience are the keys to success. And one day, don't be surprised if you walk in and catch your pets snoozing together, nose-to-nose, like best buddies.

What to Expect From Your Pet When You're Expecting

2011-09-29T20:00:00Z

Change means adjustment. Just by being with new and different people, a pet's personality can alter radically. And, by the same token, losing a beloved companion can do the same. By careful preparation, however, you can minimize the emotional upheaval and stress that are inherent in any family change - whether it means someone new moving in, such as an infant, a child, a grandparent, a tenant, or a new pet, or someone leaving the house, such as when a teenager goes off to college or there's a death in the family. The therapy involved calls for close attention to behavior patterns and immediate diagnosis and treatment of any new personality quirks.

Introducing an Infant to Your Pet
With a phenomenal number of couples today postponing childbirth so that each can establish a career, a pet naturally becomes the kid in the household. He's loved and pampered, he's treated to special occasions and gifts, he fulfills the couple's psychological need for nurturing. But, inevitably, things change. The couple begins to prepare for the birth of a child and family life. What happens to the pet in this situation? Like the first child, confused and perhaps angry about the arrival of his new brother or sister, he may feel insecure, neglected and depressed, and he may exhibit all kinds of attention-getting signals in a attempt to win back his owners' love and affection.

An animal needs a lot of preparation for the new arrival - almost as much as the parents need. If your dog or cat doesn't see babies on a regular basis, the sound, sight, and smell of them can be very distressing. As soon as a couple knows about a pregnancy, they should begin desensitizing their dog or cat to infants. This will save a lot of work later on, when the baby arrives, and can prevent many potentially dangerous situations.

The Infant Preparation Program

As far in advance as possible, try to collect everything you will need for the new arrival. This way, the pet will have time to adjust gradually to the new items and won't have to deal with them and the new baby all at the same time. (For those who are superstitious about purchasing baby item or bringing them home too early, you might ask a close friend or neighbor to keep them for you. Better still, conquer your superstition!)
For smell and orientation, you will need the crib, changing table, bassinet, baby bath, dirty diapers, and baby oil and powder. Since the powder is irritating to some animals, start by sprinkling a little on the floor so your pet can get used to it. You can't buy dirty diapers, of course, but you can douse some disposable diapers with a solution of ammonia and water to simulate the smell of urine - which will, of course, arrive with the baby. Some dogs and cats have housebreaking regressions when they see that newcomer is allowed to mess in the house. You can eliminate this problem by having the scent around early on and being vigilant about regular times for walks.
For sound desensitization, you will need to download the sound of a baby crying, or purchase an audio desensitization recording like "The Sounds of Baby" CD. This will minimize the pet's curiosity or fear when he hears the real thing. Play the download at increasingly high volumes over a period of weeks. A dog may mistake a baby's cry for that of a cat, and if he dislikes cats, the baby could stimulate negative association for him. By using the Sounds of Baby CD or the download, you can desensitize the pet before the baby arrives.

Both parents should participate in accustoming the pet to the baby's arrival. You will also need rattles, mobiles, stuffed animals, and a doll you can hold - preferably the kind that wets and cries. Place the doll in the bassinet and show it to the dog or cat. Then pick up the doll and hold it as you would hold a child. Finally, pick it up and hold it lovingly while the mechanical doll cries or while you play the recording tape of a baby crying. Don't push away the pet; let him gently investigate the bundle in your arms. Try to behave the same way when the baby comes. If you pull away the infant when the pet is trying to get close, it will indicate to him that something is wrong. The doll can accustom you both to the process. When your pet understands that he is not allowed to jump on the precious bundle you're holding, he's on the road toward learning to respect the baby. Naturally, some readjustment will be necessary after the birth, but this purchase can save a lot of steps in between.
Several months before the baby is due, have your pet checked thoroughly by the vet. If your pet is seen regularly by the vet then he should have all his booster shots and should be checked for both internal and external parasites. If the pet hasn't been seen by the vet in the past twelve months then have a checkup immediately and again before the due date. Be sure to clip his nails regularly so they won't scratch the baby, and remember to bathe and brush him well just before the due date.
Before the trip to the hospital, be sure to make arrangements for the care of your pet. Since you may both be away from the house for twenty-four hours or more, you'll need to have someone come in for walks and feedings. If you cannot make these arrangements, have a friend take the pet home with him until you are back to your normal schedule. You'll both be going through a good deal of stress throughout labor and birth, and a helper at home can eliminate some of the trauma that both you and your pet may experience. Choose someone who is a friend of the dog or cat, and who has fed and walked him previously. It should also be someone who doesn't mind being awakened at 3 a.m. - in the event that is the time when you're read to go to the hospital and will be telling him his custodianship has begun.
When you arrive home from the hospital, make sure the husband carries your new child into the house. The wife, who may have been away for a number of days, should walk in first and greet the pet enthusiastically. If the wife carries the baby, she will pull away instinctively when the pet jumps up to greet her, indicating to the dog or cat that something is wrong. The pet may also blame her absence on the bundle in her arms, and could resent the newcomer from the outset. After the big greeting is over the baby can be brought into the house.
Keep a closet full of pet toys and treats ready for after the birth. People will be coming in droves to give your baby presents, so it's only fair to have something ready for your eager pet - in the past, the first one welcomed at the door by any visitor. If he suddenly is shunted aside, he will feel unwanted and neglected. Encourage your guests to give him some special attention before they go in to see the new arrival, and there will be much less jealously between child and pet later.
As you both establish a new routine of feeding, sleeping, and grabbing a few leisure minutes when you can, be sure to alternate the time you spend with the pet. Even though the wife's primary function in your household may be child care, it's important to her to alternate walks and pet feeding with the husband. Particularly if the wife has been the primary companion of the dog or cat, it's vital that she not drop out of the picture. Both owners should continue trading off these tasks, even after the baby has arrived.
Never leave a baby and a pet alone together - for any period of time - regardless of how well they seem to be getting along. Your pet may ignore the baby, but, on the other hand, he may be extremely curious. Without meaning to, he could jump on the child or tip over the bassinet, or rake a paw over a very tender face. We certainly are not suggesting that you separate your child and your pet - that is the worst thing you can do, because it may engender instant hostility - but you should always supervise and be conservatively cautious.

Never give an accident the change to happen. Use a pet gate if your dog or cat isn't agile enough to jump one, or else be scrupulous about keeping the animal out of the room when you're not there. When you're finished with your middle-of-the-night feeding and are still half-asleep (or, more likely, when you're completely asleep and working on automatic pilot), be very careful that all pets are out before you leave the room. As long as your vet has given your pet a clean bill of health, don't worry about animal contact. A little fur and a few pet kisses are not going to hurt your baby - as long as you are always around to supervise.
If there seems to be competition over food, or if the pet seems unnecessarily upset every time you nurse, you might consider changing the pet from two regular feedings to several smaller ones - feeding out of several dishes. This way, one of you can dish out a little pet food while the other feeds the baby - and everyone will be happy.
Remember that a child and a pet play together like two young animals, so there will be more mouthing, nipping, and chasing with a toddler than there is with an adult. Don't even overreact and scream at the pet for doing something that you think is threatening. If it bothers you, use your control commands and stop the play, showing both pet and child how to touch and stroke each other gently. Also, don't yell when your delighted dog or cat picks up all the food your toddler had dropped on his way across the living room. If you scream at the pet for the infraction, he'll come to blame the child for his punishment, and this could set up a lot of hostility between them. This is the nature of things - babies drop food and pets eat it. Try to look at it this way - it means less vacuuming for you.
Finally, never forget that the change in your family shouldn't mean a change in the way you behave toward your pet. He still needs family time and separate time with each of you. It's easy to ignore a beloved cat or dog when you're ecstatic over the birth of a child. It's easy to assume that the pet can fend for himself. But this isn't so. He should be viewed as another sibling- one who deserves the care and consideration he's always received.

If you follow this simple program, you should have a pleasant and stress-free transition from couple life to family life. Your goal, of course, is to have your pet love the baby and want to protect it as much as both of you. As long as you are aware of the pet's needs and provide for them in advance, you should have very little trouble when your infant comes.

Contrary to popularly held belief, children raised in a house with two or more dogs or cats during the first year of life may be less likely to develop allergic diseases as compared with children raised without pets, according to a study in the latest issue of the Journal of the American Medical Association.

In the future issues I'll walk you through the introduction of a child, an elderly parent and a tenant or house guest to your pet.

How to Build the Perfect Cathouse

2011-08-30T14:07:00Z

Entertain Your Cat
Set up some Kitty entertainment! People need to get out of the house and make a night of it at the local comedy club or take an exotic trip to Club Med. Well, Kitty can't go wind surfing, but owners can certainly make her life more interesting. The first step is easy yet it's the one most often overlooked. How many playthings does your cat have? Right now, look up from where you're sitting. Scan the room. Better yet, get on your hands and knees and crawl around so you can see it from Kitty's perspective. I bet that, at most, there are a few old toys around. Their novelty probably wore off months ago. Boring!

No cheating, now. Don't even think about telling me there's plenty of stuff around but it all happens to be under the chair or the sofa. The bottom line is that is they're not in the room now they don't count. If you can't see the playthings, then you're part of the problem. Be part of the solution instead.

Be sure Kitty has a bundle of toys. That goes for all the owners who say, "But my cat doesn't like any toys. She won't even play with anything." To this is say, "pooh-pooh." I've yet to find a cat that won't play with something. For all the doubting Thomases, there are cats who turn up a disinterested nose at a lot of different playthings, but keep at it. Try everything that is commercially available or anything you can create. I guarantee, in almost every single case, you will come across something the furball enjoys. No matter how aloof or detached you think your cat may be, more than likely there are toys and activities she'll enjoy. However, sometimes you need to be clever in how you present them.

Rotate Those Toys
Whatever Kitty's choice of playthings just be sure you have plenty of them. And remember to rotate them, which means there should be at least two large batches of toys on hand at all times. Leave the first batch on the floor for two days while the second batch is stored in a closet. After two days, rotate them. Take the ones from the closet and place them on the floor, then take the ones from the floor and put them in the closet. Repeat this procedure every two days and you'll create a fresh and interesting environment for Kitty. Clever cat kitties, just like human kiddies, become bored with the same old toys. Without toy rotation it would be like playing Scrabble every day for the year. It might be fun at first but it gets to the point where enough is enough. If you take away those toys and then return them a few days later, they'll seem like brand-new play things all over again. I kind of hate to admit it, but I guess you could say we're faking out our feline friends.

What a Sport! You Have Kitty One Scratching Post
Most cat owners supply their cats with one scratching post. Big deal. As I've explained before, I believe cats are very intelligent animals, more intelligent than many experts and some owners think they are. This intelligent creature is bored to death with only one scratching post. If those telltale pieces of furniture stuffing are still stuck to Kitty's paws or the carpet fringe is missing, then your cat is in the inquisitive, curious "I'm-too-bright-to-be-content-with-one-scratching-post" category. These cats need more, more, more.

Make Your Own Scratching Posts
If you're independently wealthy, then by all means save yourself some trouble and go out and buy a bunch of scratching posts, poles, pads, and all the variations currently on the market. Rotate and change them frequently as I suggested you do with the toys. But if the thought of spending hundred of dollars on scratching posts, poles and the like is not appealing to you, or if you've decided you simply won't get a second job to support Kitty's habit, take advantage of the freebies at the supermarket. Try using cardboard boxes and brown paper bags (never use plastic bags or any bag with handles-they're dangerous and could suffocate the cat). I thing everyone on the planet knows that is you put a paper bag or box on the floor, Kitty will be sniffing and smelling and wandering in and out of it within minutes, because the items are brand-new to her environment and are full of interesting and exciting odors. Cats have a grand old time exploring what supermarkets give away at no charge. She'll think it's kitty heaven.

Kitty Condos
Don't be timid. Take the use of those cardboard boxes one step further-build a kitty condo or duplex apartment. Place together several strong cardboard boxes, cutting out a few holes in each so Kitty can climb in, out, and around her new co-op. Don't be afraid to be a little creative, particularly if you want to save money. Save your old carpet remnants or get friendly with the local carpet distributor or installer. Grab those odd-sized, leftover, small pieces that get thrown out. Glue them to the sides of the boxes and voila!-a cheap, instant scratching post. What's best about these do-it-yourself posts is, because they cost you nothing but five minutes of labor, you can change them all the time, keeping Kitty on her toes-literally.

If you're the reserves type and find it difficult to hustle the local merchants for scrap carpet remnants, it's still cheaper to buy some inexpensive doormats than it is to buy most scratching posts. Wait for a sale and buy a bunch.

Be Creative
Don't fall into the old trap of using all the carpet with the nap side facing out. Many owners who swear their cats don't like scratching posts are amazed to learn their kitty simply prefers to scratch on the rougher surfaces, including the underside of the carpet. Some cat owners know this already. They spend a lifetime smoothing out the ends of the area rugs after kitty has taken it upon herself to flip over the edges and scratch on the carpet's underside.

I once had a client who was not particularly wealthy and believed that the best investment she could make for her future were Persian and Oriental rugs. She purchased them whenever she could and thought of them as her savings account and retirement fund all rolled into one. She believed they would increase in value more than anything else her money could buy, or any yield from the bank. She kept the carpets properly stored in an unused bedroom in her home and rarely went in to check on them. But one day she did and got the shock of her life. Upon her inspection she found that each and everyone had been clawed and scratched on the underside. Her cat had reached the ends of each rolled carpet and had a ball clawing and kneading away to her hearts content. Fortunately, the damage was on the carpet backing, so while it has made the carpets less than perfect and therefore less valuable, nothing was visible from the carpet top so it wasn't a total loss. What could have been a terrible disaster has bearable negative results.

Try a Log
Try a what? Yup, a log or a piece of wood about the size used for a large wood-burning stove or fireplace. Some cats just love to do their stretching and scratching on wood so that no matter what you try, nothing else will do. After checking it first for bugs, bring the wood into the house and place it where Kitty likes to do her scratching. If she's a wood clawer she'll be delighted at the new addition to her inventory. What's best is if you can replace the piece every few days with another piece. If you don't have a wood source of your own, make a deal with someone you know who has a fireplace or wood-burning stove. Gung-ho owners can even bring larger pieces into the house. It's a thrill when you see Kitty's eyes light up. Yes, it is a bit of extra work but it may be the easiest step you can take to protect your belongings.

Pet Massage

2011-08-29T20:02:00Z

Massage is as wonderful and therapeutic for an animal as it is for a human. The experience of being touched, rubbed, and stroked is not just reassuring; it’s also physically beneficial. Massage for pets is a relatively new development in pet health care, but it’s a growing phenomenon, one that every pet owner should get involved in. After a long hard day playing ball, running, or swimming, every pet can profit from a gentle massage-it relaxes him, it soothes his muscles, and it makes him aware of the fact that his owner knows and appreciates just how hard he’s been working.

Who Needs Massage?
Every pet, regardless of age, size or activity level, can benefit from a massage every once in a while. A very active animal often suffers from muscle aches and strains, just as a person does, and a rubdown can ease the discomfort he can’t express to you in words. You’ll be able to tell when your dog or cat is asking for some tender loving care by certain stiffness in his hind legs, or a slower-than-usual response when you tell him to get up after an exercise break. He attentive to your pet’s body language and do what he’s clearly asking you to do. A brief massage can work wonders and make that soreness or stiffness vanish.

Arthritic and geriatric pets are particularly good candidates for massage. Animals who suffer a variety of ailments from hip dysplasia to panosteitis to back problems are often afflicted with chronic pain, and the thoughtful owner should be more sensitive than usual to his pet’s special physical needs. The stroking and plying of old or arthritic muscles can really make a difference. Even the worst cases seem to perk up and move more fluidly after a good massage. This is only partly due to the manual manipulation of muscles and joints. It’s true that kind touch means, more than anything else, that the pet’s owner cares about him and recognizes his pain. You can communicate your understanding and your love through the comfort of touch more clearly than you can express your feelings with words. Massage is another form of praise for your pet, one he truly cherishes.

How to Give a Complete Massage
Begin the massage with two or three minutes of general rubbing and stroking as you talk quietly to your pet. This should be a time for the two of you to wind down, to forget the frenzy of the day, and to relax totally. Just stroking the animal, beginning with the back of the neck and working your way down to the tail, should set the mood. With your gentle touch, you’re telling your pet that you want him to trust you and to deliver himself into your care.

Stroke the back of the neck first and then the spine and back, working your way down with your hands moving along the sides of the pet. When you get to the hip area, be extremely gentle. Even pets who have never suffered from any actual disorder tend to be sensitive around the hip joints. Keep talking as you touch, reassuring the animals that everything is all right.

From the hips, stroke down the rear of the legs to the paws, and then release the pressure as you move back up to your pet’s front. Start under the neck, down the chest, along the front legs to the front paws. By the time you’ve covered the whole body with these light, gentle strokes, your dog or cat should be calm and contented, ready for more. Now you can begin the real massage, using the circular motion of the fingers. Begin just behind the head and do the neck area with your hands open, your fingers pressing steadily, massaging the area in circles. Keep rotating your fingers, and don’t let them break contact with your animal’s skin and fur. Just move them along, down the shoulders and then the side muscles. Continue down the back, working the spine lightly with your thumbs while the four other fingers of each hand massage the pet’s sides. Complete the course all the way down the spinal column of the tail.

Go back up to the shoulders and switch your hands around, with the fingers on the spine and the thumbs down along the sides of the pet. Talk softly as you let your fingers make small circles on the animal’s flanks. At this point, you may hear a few happy sighs or some heavy purring. If so, you’re doing your job.

Next, spend some time on the hind legs, kneading them like bread dough. Don’t make the pressure too hard-this is a sensitive area. You can massage each leg keeping all your fingers on one side and then moving to the other, or you can work with open hands, letting your thumbs and fingers wrap around the leg. This way, the inside and the outside of the leg receive attention simultaneously. Keep your technique varied. All muscles get the most benefit from different kinds of stimulation, so if you did it one way yesterday, use another method today.

Finish both rear legs before moving on to the pet’s front. Then begin on the underside of the neck with the softest, most delicate touch. Slowly massage your pet down the chest and increase the pressure as you get into a less-vulnerable region of the body. From here, work down and in between the front legs, gently manipulating the joints, tendons, and muscles as you did in the rear. You can stroke, rub, and scratch the stomach and groin area-most pets are crazy about this kind of stimulation, and will let you know how well you’re doing by sighing, groaning, or purring loudly.

After you’ve finished the stomach area, go back to the chest and again work slowly down the front legs to the paws. Even the most suspicious holdout should be a quivering pool of jelly by now, and every muscle, every joint will have had a wonderful treat.

At the end of the massage, a good scratch all over is certainly in order. If your pet craves more, he may try to nudge your hands back on him and encourage you to start all over again. If you have the time and inclination by all means do so.

Who gets the dog and cat?

2011-06-01T23:01:00Z

The statistics tell it all - half the marriages in the U.S. today end in divorce. It goes without saying that this is hard on all parties involved, particularly those who had nothing to do with the decision to divorce. Warren Eckstein says the children and pets of those families are the innocent victims of often bitter and long-drawn-out struggles.

BECAUSE PETS ARE part of over 50 percent of all American households, clearly there are many animals who have been and will be forced to deal with the stress of being torn between two beloved people, and they consequently will suffer from broken-homes syndrome. While these situations are never easy, here are some measures that can be taken to relieve a little of the heartache involved - for the pets and the couple.

STRESS IN THE HOUSEHOLD

Anxiety travels from one end of the leash to the other. This means that a dog or cat is aware instantly when something is wrong with their owners - detecting it from the voice and body signals they manifest. The arguing and hostility that inevitably comes before and during a divorce can be terribly traumatic for a dog or cat, for a variety of reasons.

First, of course, the animal's schedule is generally turned upside-down. Who's going to walk the pet if one owner is there one night, but gone the next? When will the feedings and play periods (if any) take place? Will anyone be giving the pet his regular exercise periods, or will he be forced to lie around the house all the time, building up energy that would otherwise have been channeled to his regular run or ball game? The kind of upheaval that takes place in a divorcing household necessarily means that things just aren't the way they used to be.

The house may seem deserted and isolated, or it may be filled with well-meaning friends and relatives, all offering advice. If, for example the woman's mother moves in with her as soon as her husband moves out, then all the relationships in the household have suddenly changed at once. The previously independent woman may be treated like a child by her mother, who wants to pamper her and make everything all right. The husband who may appear on various occasions (or not at all) has suddenly changed from the man of the house to the villain on the scene. Surely, all of this must confuse and confound a pet.

WHY DO THEY DO THAT?

The consequences of the family's upheaval may take several different forms. In one instance, the owner who remains in the house may decide that the pet is his or her only friend, and thus may become overly dependent on the companionship of the dog or cat.

But male or female, the owner that the pet is left with may also be a tearful person who is lonely and depressed a great deal of the time, and who demands the pet's undivided attention - and not necessarily in a positive, healthful way. Pets need privacy, just as we do, and it is impossibly for them to provide the sympathy and understanding that some severely unhappy people require of them. Some of this anxiety is bound to rub off on the pet, and they may begin to react negatively to the desperate clinging by becoming clingy themselves, losing their individuality or picking up some nervous characteristics.

The second scenario is often worse, however. In some households, the pet is blamed for the divorce. The couple (or one member of the couple) needs a scapegoat for his or her anger and frustration, and takes it all out on the dog or cat. The owner is no necessarily in a logical or coherent state, and probably can't stop to consider how the pet is reacting to these unnecessary accusations. It is difficult to think about someone else when you are going through bad times, and it's very easy to blame your troubles on the first thing you see.

A PET IS DEFENSELESS

The non-demanding relationship he offers his owner may put him in jeopardy when things are very bad, and he can react only with confusion and hurt. In the midst of a divorce, when both parties are living in the house but there's a great deal of yelling and screaming, alternating with dead silence, a pet may begin to manifest signs of regression. He may become very nervous and fretful, and may even retreat to another room during arguments or may become sufficiently paranoid to feel the need to protect himself and some aggressive behavior may even be seen. The couple, unfortunately, probably will disagree on everything he's doing, thereby making it virtually impossible to correct his behavior consistently.

PETS AND KIDS

The relationship of children and pets can be either wonderful or terrible when the parents are going through a divorce. In most divorce cases, the kids will develop a solid relationship with the pet. After all, this is the only member of the household not asking them to take sides or see a psychiatrist or get lost - the dog or cat may be the only constant in a very topsy-turvy existence.

In other cases, the child may take out all his hostility on the animal. Instead of showing his parents how angry he is that they are doing this, he may kick the dog or pull the cat's tail. It's up to the parents, of course, to see that no major friction continues, because a bad relationship between pet and child will only add to the hostility already in the household.

A Pet Makeover

2011-05-15T16:43:00Z

Is your dog looking disheveled? Does your cat look less than cuddly? If so, a pet makeover is in order.

It's amazing what a good hair styling, shampoo, conditioning and blow dry can do! Not only will your pet look and smell better, but he or she will feel better, too! You know how good you feel after a trip to the salon or spa! Why not do the same for your four-footed best friend?

Other than a few breeds that are supposed to have long shaggy hair, it's easy to determine when your pet needs a makeover. Look for overgrown hair creating long bangs that obscure your pet's vision. How about hair hanging from the tips of your pet's ears? Are they collecting food and water as they dangle into his food and water bowls? Has your pet become sticky to the touch or developed an odor that makes Fido or Fluffy unhuggable?

In addition to the obvious cosmetic reasons for a makeover - there's another good reason to treat your pet to a makeover - the emotional pick-me-up it offers. Even if your pet is not particularly dirty or unkempt, he or she can benefit from a makeover for purely emotional reasons. Good candidates for such a pick-me-up are adult pets who have been pushed into the background after their novelty has worn off, bored and lonely pets who are left alone all day, and pets that are depressed. Makeovers are beneficial for senior pets, particularly older cats who can no longer reach the areas they were once able to groom themselves.

THE TRIM

While makeovers can be performed by professional dog and cat groomers, we pet owners can do a lot ourselves at home. It's not necessary to use an electric clipper, which requires a more experienced hand, but a good scissors made for hair cutting (generally available at pharmacies) can help any owner turn a scraggly pet into a real Prince Charming or Cinderella.

Hair hanging in front of your pet's eyes can be trimmed away, but take care that the point of the scissors is directed away form the eyes. Leave a one or two inch ridge of hair above the eyes to act as an awning, providing some protection from direct sun. Ears can be freed from long hair fringes by neatly trimming around the outline of each ear, leaving a * inch border. You can also follow the outline of the mouth and chin area to trim away extra beard hair which tends to become discolored and encrusted with food particles. Uneven hair under the belly can also be cleaned up with the scissors. So can excessive hair on the tail.

Also check the bottom of your pet's feet for excess hair between the pads. Hair extending beyond the pads should be trimmed as grit and gravel often become entangled in the hair, creating sores between the pads. Speaking of feet, check the length of your pet's nails. If you can hear them click as your pet walks across wood or tile floors, they're too long. Long nails can cause lameness, aggravate arthritis and hip dysplasia because your pet's weight is not properly distributed. So get your pet's nail clipper and get to work (see Volume 7/Number 1 "The Well-Manicured Pet.")

THE BATH

If a bath is in order, be sure to use a shampoo made specifically for your type of pet. Don't use dog shampoo on cats or vice versa. Take advantage of one of many special shampoos on the market. There are shampoos to brighten the coats of white-haired dogs and cats, to bring out the luster of black-coated pets, conditioners and detanglers for long-coated breeds, medicated ones for dry coats, just to name a few.

Before bathing, brush out all the knots in your pet's coat. Be sure to protect your pet's coat. Be sure to protect your pet's ears from collecting water. This is done by placing a cotton ball with a dab of mineral oil into each ear - gently so it may be easily removed. Use a non-skid rubber mat on the bottom of the sink or tub, so your pet has secure footing. Follow the shampoo manufacturer's label directions and be sure to rinse your pet well. Use care to dry your pet thoroughly.

A SPECIAL WORD TO CAT OWNERS

Cat owners, forget the age old thinking that cats don't like baths and can't be bathed! Show cats are bathed regularly. All cats should receive some assistance with their grooming. If started while young, your cat will become adjusted to it. If your cat is older, it's best to introduce Kitty to bath time gradually. Whether young or old, play with your cat in the empty sink or bathtub. Give Kitty her favorite toys or treats. After a few play periods, when Kitty appears relaxed, repeat the process but place a very small layer of water in the bottom of the tub or sink.

Continue practicing the procedure a few times and when your pet seems comfortable, add a little more water, continuing this procedure until Kitty demonstrates that he or she has no fear of the tub, sink or water. Only then can a full bath take place. And, of course, while Kitty is adjusting to the bath time process, be sure to use plenty of praise.

Keeping up with your pet's physical appearance is important, not only for the cosmetic improvement, but for emotional reasons, too. Of course your pet will be happier when annoying hair is removed, when his or feet don't hurt, and he or she feels and smells fresh. But your pet will also feel good knowing that you cared enough to make him or her feel that way!

Declawing ...the Hot Debate

2011-02-15T17:46:00Z

Call me a naturalist or an old-fashioned guy but I don't like to tamper with Mother Nature just because it's more convenient for me.

I guess that sums up my feelings about declawing.

A supreme being much more knowledgeable than I decided Kitty should be born with nails. So until that being tells me to do something about removing those nails, I'll stand hard and fast in my position about declawing.

As far as I am concerned no cat should be declawed. In particular, cats allowed outdoors should never, ever be declawed, no matter what the owner's rationalization might be. Outdoor cats need to protect themselves, and nature provided nails as a big part of their defense mechanism.

Most owners have cats declawed because they scratch and claw up their possessions. As you know by now, I'd much rather educate the clawing kitty as to what she may or may not scratch.

It's really not as hard as you think. Remember: You can't teach a cat not to scratch but you can teach a cat what not to scratch.

Fighting between cats in the same household is the second biggest incentive for owners to want to declaw their cats. But here's the rub! Although declawing will certainly eliminate the damage cats can do by scratching at each other, it does nothing about the much more serious damage that can be caused when one nasty cat bites another. These wounds often abcess badly.

Cat owners shouldn't be lulled into the false sense of security that comes from removing the claws. If your cats are suffering due to a fighting household, it's best to get to the root of the problem and resolve it.

Opinions differ on whether declawing is physically harmful to cats. Some say it's simply minor surgery. Others say X rays of the bone structure of Kitty's legs before and after declawing show a marked difference that's caused by his having to balance himself unnaturally. Without the nails, physical stress is placed on the legs, where it isn't intended to be.

My favorite argument is when I'm told declawing doesn't hurt the cat. There's only one thing wrong with this statement - I've never heard a cat say it.

If you've already declawed your cat, don't feel guilty about it. It's over and done with and you thought you were doing the right thing. But for all the future kitties in your life, think twice about it. In nature's grand plan, it's probably best if the human race keeps its hands off of God's creatures, particularly when there's no medical or humane benefit.

Declawing is a quick fix to the destruction problem, but a better fix is to educate the cat - you will find help with this in my book How To Get Your Cat To Do What You Want.

Besides, way too many indoor cats escape to the great outdoors at least once or twice in their lifetimes. Leaving them defenseless, without their nails, is simply out of the question.

Coping with the loss of a pet

2011-02-15T17:45:00Z

How to manage your grief when a pet dies

One of the most difficult times for a person is dealing with the loss of a loved one. For most people, the term "loved one" means a human friend or relative. If you are the owner of a pet, then you realize that the term loved one has a much broader meaning. Warren Eckstein offers advice how to get through the grieving process.

EVERYONE WILL REACT differently to the loss of a pet, and how your pet died and how old they were are also important factors regarding how you will react. For example, some people will feel less guilty if their pet dies of natural causes vs. a pet that may have been hit by a car, choked on a bone or died from heat stroke.

• Grief, confusion, anger, guilt and depression are all normal and typical reactions. However, the length of time for grief varies from individual to individual. The most important thing in coping with the loss of a pet is to acknowledge that you are going to have the emotions, and know that it's O.K. to be angry/sad/upset. Regarding anger: as with any loss, it's not uncommon for a person suffering the loss of a pet to find someone or something to blame - even if that mean blaming themselves.

• Guilt: when you love and nurture a pet, you tend to feel responsibility for everything that happens to the pet even if it is out of our control. Consequently, when something goes wrong (like the death of a pet), feelings of guilt are common.

• Depression: the loss of a pet can cause depression that can range from just feeling blue to being paralyzed by the loss.

• Find support: You may talk to people and even family who think you are being silly to grieve over the loss of a pet. But it's important to let yourself grieve, and to get support from others who do share your feelings. Getting help from people who understand your feelings can be a huge relief. Outside help is available - many humane groups offer bereavement counseling as do private therapists. Talk to your vet, who may know of other community resources or support groups as well. It's important to have a good support group - friends, family, people who understand how important your pet was in your life. There are even online resources for people who have lost a pet, and even simply reading other people's thoughts and feelings on their loss makes it easier to handle. Many people suggest remembering the good times you had with your pet. At first it may be painful, but after a while, remembering those quirky moments with your pet will bring a smile back to your face.

FINAL STEPS

Deciding on your pet's final resting place, whether it's a home burial, cemetery burial or cremation, can be an important part of saying goodbye. (Some people even have had their pets stuffed by taxidermists.) Any of these options, whichever one is right for you, gives a person the opportunity to say that final goodbye and move on. A burial is great for people who consider their pets just like another member of the family and provides a physical location where you can visit their gravestone. Some people even get their pet stuffed at a taxidermy shop, so they can remember them like that forever.

Some people have other, more personal ways of saying goodbye. Warren has had many many pets over the course of his life, and used to hand-carve their headstones personally when one passed away. It was his way of coping with the loss and paying homage to his pet. So everyone will want to pay their final respects in their own way - and there are plenty of options out there to decide from. Talk to your vet about these and other options that may work for you.

WHAT SHOULD YOU DO NEXT?

Should you get rid of the pet's stuff: Bed, toys etc? That's a choice that individuals have to make. For some, it's a way to move on and creates a sense of resolution and completion. For others, it's almost like if they get rid of the stuff, they're betraying the memory of their pet, and the blank space on the floor where the dog bed used to be is a more painful reminder that he's gone. If you think you should get rid of their stuff, put everything in a box. But don't throw it out - store it in a closet for a while, to see if that's really best for you. And if that's too hard, pulling out a toy or some old photos may help alleviate the pain of separation.

Should you get another pet right away? For some, getting one right away is the exact right thing to do. To have a new puppy or kitten breathe fresh life into the air and remind us that even in times of loss, there is always time for a little fun and frolicking. However, for others, getting a new pet immediately is a disaster, easily losing patience with their new pet and getting angry because the new pet is not behaving like the pet that they just lost. After all, no one can live up to the perfect memories you have of your lost pet.

Wait a bit, and then visit a shelter/breeder to look at the new dogs available, but leave your wallet at home. You don't want to buy a new pet on impulse or right away. Take some time to do some soul-searching, to figure out what is the right move for you. After all, it's not fair to a new pet to be neglected for a lifetime just because you were a little lonely at that particular moment.

HOW TO HELP SOMEONE ELSE WHO HAS LOST A PET

Have an incredibly good ear, and understand that the loss is huge. Don't underestimate the strength of someone's feelings for their pet, or how emotional they'll become when they lose their pet. For most people, their dog or cat Is a member of their family, and losing them is truly a tragedy.

Most importantly, you don't want to belittle the event by saying things like "It was just a cat" or "You'll get over it." Instead, use "distraction therapy" by taking them out to do different activities for short periods of time. Take them to a movie, or out for a walk, or to the mall to shop for a while. If they're grieving, don't let it consume them - listen, but at the same time, try to get them out and active.

Don't take it too personally if they snap at you - it's pent up anger that they're needing to vent. Let them get angry at you, or cry on your shoulder. That's totally normal, and to be expected with any kind of loss.

Humane Heroes

2011-02-15T17:44:00Z

Who deserves my dollars? - by Warren Eckstein

Among the hundreds of letters I receive each week, there are always several from animal-lovers requesting my advice with regard to what organizations I would recommend they donate money to. Sometimes the writers are preparing their wills, other times the writers have questions as to whether the organizations they are currently donating to are really worthy of their hard-earned money.

As a rule, I seldom recommend specific organizations - it's your money and the ultimate decision must be yours. I can, however, provide several guidelines to make the decision-making process easier.

1) When considering making a donation to an animal shelter, I personally prefer ones with a "no kill" policy. These organizations do not euthanize their animals if not adopted within a specific time period. Such shelters only resort to euthanasia if the rescued animal is suffering due to a hopeless physical condition.

2) Any shelter that you are considering should permit you to visit their premises. You should be able to see first-hand the facilities and care they are providing. If they refuse your request, remove them from your list of consideration.

3) Request a copy of the organization's current financial report. If they refuse to provide you with a break-down, consider another organization. Any organization worth its salt will have nothing to hide and will provide you with this information. Once you've received such a report, review it. How are their funds being utilized? Is the majority of their money going towards the actual care of the animals or to administrative costs (i.e. salaries and advertising)?

4) If the tax deductability of your contribution is important to you, the organization must be recognized by the IRS as a non-profit organization. Such organizations are required to file with the federal government. Ask them to provide you with proof of their non-profit status.

5) Don't let slick promotional brochures be your only criterion for selecting an organization. Many small "mom and pop" organizations simply do not have the time, money nor manpower to produce fancy brochures - they're too busy using their limited resources for doing the actual rescue work and caring for the animals.

And here is a link to Guide Star the National Database of Nonprofit Organizations where you may check out financial records and mission statements of any organization to which you may be considering making a donation.

Apply the guidelines listed above and you may just find the organization worthy of your support!

Warren Eckstein's Recommended Charities

Over the years, my listeners have let me know about humane and rescue organizations that have gone above and beyond the call of duty when it comes to helping out pets and animals in need.

This is by no means a complete list -- there are many worthwhile groups working out there. If you know of a deserving group that is a registered 501c3, tax-exempt no- kill organization that should be on the list, please e-mail us and periodically the list will be updated.

Many of the websites have 'click-on' donation areas. They may not provide a receipt for your records, so please check with the group, if a receipt is important to you. We have also included postal addresses to send donations.

1. THE HUMANE SOCIETY OF NEW YORK
www.humanesocietyny.org
(212) 752-4842
306 East 59th Street
New York, NY 10022

2. BOXER RESCUE
www.boxer-rescue-la.com
(213) 532-6541
17514 Ventura Blvd. #201
Encino, CA 91316

3. GREYHOUND PETS OF AMERICA
www.fastfriends.org
(800) 298-5743
1210 N. Cypress St.
La Habra Heights, CA 90631

4. GERMAN SHEPHERD RESCUE
Westside German Shepherd Rescue of Los Angeles
www.sheprescue.org
(310) 202-SAVE (7283)
2721 Wigtown Road
L.A., CA 90064

German Shepherd Rescue of Orange County
Serving Orange County, San Diego, San Bernardino, Greater Los Angeles, Riverside and more.
www.gsroc.org
(714) 773-5915
177F Riverside Avenue, Ste. 143
Newport Beach, CA 92663

5. LITTLE ANGEL PUG RESCUE
www.lapr.org
(626)795-3944
P.O. Box 12242
La Crescenta, CA 91224

6. BRITTANY FOUNDATION
www.brittanyfoundation.com
(818)709-5706
P.O. Box 9334
Canoga Park, CA 91309

7. LINDA BLAIR WORLD HEART FOUNDATION
www.lindablairworldheart.org
LBWF
10061 Riverside Drive #1003
Toluca Lake, CA, 91602

8. ALL OF THE BREED RESCUE GROUPS THAT ARE SANCTIONED BY THE NATIONAL BREED CLUBS.

9. FERAL CAT CARETAKERS COALITION
www.feralcatcaretakers.org
(310) 820-4122
P.O Box 491244
L.A. CA 90049-9244

Toxic Food for Pets

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Common foods in the home you should keep away from your pets

Most Common

Chocolate
(contains theobromine, similar to caffeine, and causes heart arrhythmias and/or death)

Macadamia nuts
(causes severe rear leg weakness and temporary paralysis)

Grapes/Raisins

Pear Seeds Skins & Stems, Plum pits, Peach & Apricot pits, Apple seeds, Persimmons.

Raw Eggs

Raw Fish

Rhubarb Leaves

Potato Leaves & Skins

Tomato Leaves & Skins

Baby Food
(contains onion and garlic)

Alcohol

Almonds

Caffeine
Coffee grounds - often used in gardens as Cocoa Mulch - coffee beans and tea.

Raw Cloves of Garlic
Even though garlic contains thiosulphate like the onion, it appears that it's much less toxic & large amounts would need to be eaten to cause illness.

Mushrooms

Onions
(raw, cooked and dehydrated: destroys red blood cells and can cause anemia)

Tobacco

Yeast Dough

Causes of Bad Behavior in Dogs

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

The maxim "a sound mind in a sound body" is extremely relevant when it comes to taking care of our pets. Nearly every behavior problem I have encountered in my thirty years of work with animals is directly attributable to lack of exercise. Does your dog chew the furniture when you're at the office? Does he grab food from the table or annoy your guests? Is your cat impervious to any and all attempts to be trained to a litter box? Does he scratch and claw without provocation? These behavior problems are usually due to misdirected energy.

Your dog would rather have a long run in an open field than jump on your dinner guests, but when he is denied his favorite pastime, he reverts to bad behavior. Excessive barking, biting, racing out the door, hole-digging, acting badly in the car, not staying, not coming, not doing anything when told - all of these problems and many others vanish entirely when a consistent exercise program is instituted. Diverting all that misspent energy into organized activity does for a dog what it does for you - it calms you down, lets you sleep better at night, and make you generally kinder to others.

Very often, pets' bad habits are related to their home environment. Their nervous so-called "hyperactive" behavior may in fact be a reaction to the pressures and tensions of the family members around them. Animals do empathize with humans, and the preoccupied, angry, or hysterical behavior of a beloved owner may actually rub off on a dog or cat.

I don't have any panacea for human emotional ailments, but I can suggest that both pet and owner would benefit from a good, exercise program. Chasing a Frisbee eliminates the need to chase a tail or chew a paw. The most anxious or high-strung pets can be calmed by a dip in the ocean or a run around the park. And what appears to be a serious emotional problem may be simply a desire to release a lot of pent-up energy. Lack of physical fitness in an animal creates a host of difficulties, and these can worsen if not attended to promptly.

When Fido Isn't Kissable

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

The Causes and Cures for Stool-Eating

One of the most embarrassing and unpleasant problems dog owners can encounter is the problem of Fido eating his (or some other animal's) stool. If you should be unlucky enough to have this problem, it's hard to follow my advice to "give your dog a hug and kiss!" Before we get into how to correct this problem, it's important to examine the reasons why stool-eating (also known as 'coprophagy') occurs.

The Causes of Coprophagy

Something may be going wrong with Fido's diet and nutrition. In some cases, when a dog is unable to properly digest and absorb the vitamins and minerals in his food, he will instinctively eat his own stool. It's Fido's attempt to re-digest the food that he was unable to process the first time around.

Another possible cause of this behavior may be due to the fact that you've over-corrected your dog during housebreaking. If you've been particularly harsh in correcting your pet when you've discovered that he's left "presents" for you on the living room carpet, he may actually "eat the evidence" rather than incur your wrath. I've seen this particular problem occur more and more often with dogs who have been "crate-trained." Dogs by nature are very clean animals and would rather eat their stool than have to be confined with and/or lie in their feces. It's just one more reason why I'm against caging dogs for housebreaking purposes. It's also the reason why there's an increased incidence of coprophagy in puppies who are kept in cages at pet shops.

If your household includes both dogs and cats, you may have caught Fido "snacking" in Kitty's litter box! The reason for this is that cats have very discriminating palates and cat food manufacturers cater to their finicky clientele by making cat food more palatable. Proof of this is the fact that you rarely will see a cat eating canned dog food, but you will often see a dog eating cat food. As unappetizing as it may be to us, cat stool can be attractive to our dogs.

Any one or a combination of the above could be the problem. It is also possible, especially in a dog that has been stool-eating for a while, that the original cause is no longer present and Fido has simply developed a very unpleasant habit.

The Resolution

The first step is to have your dog checked by your vet to rule out any major physical problems. This advice holds true anytime any pet suddenly develops symptoms and/or actions that are out of the ordinary.

Once Fido gets a clean bill of health, try adding some Hugs & Kisses Vitamin/Mineral Supplements to his diet. This will definitely help Fido if the cause of his stool-eating is due to malabsorption of nutrients. It will also serve as a precautionary step, insuring that your pet won't develop a nutritional deficiency leading to coprophagy in the future.

The next step is to break the habit by discouraging Fido from eating stool. This is done by making the stool taste bad (as if stool itself is tasty!). This can be done in several ways. For instance, if Fido is eating his own stool, speak to your vet about providing you with a product that can be added to Fido's food that makes the end result (no pun intended!) less appetizing. Some people have had success by adding a little commercially available meat tenderizer to their pets' food. Of course, check with your vet first and find out how much you should be adding to Fido's meals.

Another effective way of discouraging Fido is to "decoy" his stool with Bitter YUCK! It's available to order online on this website. Sprinkle Bitter YUCK! on Fido's stool, the next time he goes for a nibble and it should be enough to discourage him.

The key to resolving this problem, as with most behavioral problems, is consistency. You'll need to be vigilant - treating all of Fido's stool (and stool in the litter box) every day for several weeks. If you take Fido for walks on the street, this will mean going out before Fido and treating any stool he might encounter. I know this sounds time-consuming and your neighbors might think you're crazy, but you will break this unpleasant habit and be able to give Fido a hug and a kiss for me!

Picking a pet from the pound

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Tips for future animal owners on what to look for.

There are 15 million pets put to sleep each year, most of which could be adopted - meaning that they are healthy, loving, caring animals that would be great in a home - not sick or dangerous at all. Unfortunately, there simply aren't enough people who are adopting these animals, and there aren't enough shelters to keep them if they don't have a home. Warren Eckstein has these tips on what to look for if adopting an animal from a pet shelter.

So what should you look for to make sure you're getting a healthy, happy pet when you're at the pound? Here are some quick tips:

CHECK THEIR EYES, EARS, NOSE AND TEETH

Make sure that the nose is moist, eyes are alert, and their teeth are in good shape. While sometimes a good grooming can fix these things, sick animals often have rheumatic eyes, dry nose or bad breath. If they do, it doesn't necessarily mean they're sick, but it's definitely something you'll want the vet to check out.

CHECK THE REAR END, TOO

They may be dirty and have "stuff" on them but make sure it's because they haven't been cleaned, and not because they have intestinal problems. Diarrhea or other issues may be a sign of a further health problem that you'll want to have a vet check out.

DON'T JUDGE PERSONALITY WHILE THEY'RE BEHIND BARS

Sometimes, even the sweetest dogs are freaked out when they've been cooped up behind bars, and may bark or be slightly protective. After all, if you'd lost your home and were put in a cell, wouldn't you be a little peeved, too? So if you do want to get to know them, have a shelter rep take the dog out of the cage, spend some time in a room alone with them, if possible, and give them a while to get adjusted.

If you're interested in the dog, take them to be looked at by a vet. Any reputable shelter will allow you to have them checked out by an independent vet before you commit to adoption. Be sure they are spayed/neutered - which is often part of the adoption fee of a shelter - and get any information on health history that you can. Granted, health histories may be scarce when dealing with rescued strays or abandoned dogs, but the shelter should be able to tell you the general age, demeanor, and health status of the pet you choose.

Chewing Problems... Don't Confuse Your Canines!

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

"You don't know how many times I've heard, "Warren, my dog keeps chewing my socks!" When I ask the owner what he does when he catches Fido in the act, I usually hear, "I yell 'No!,' take the socks away from him, and give him his own sock to play with."

Here it's the owner, not the dog, who's at fault. After all, we can't expect Fido to differentiate between his sock and other socks. To Fido, a sock is a sock. One minute his owner is reprimanding him for chewing a sock; the next minute he's encouraging Fido to chew one. It's enough to make any pet neurotic! That's why my number one rule when it comes to preventing chewing problems is: Don't confuse your pet by giving him household items to chew on. Give him items specifically made for him such as rawhide and dog toys.

And here's another way many owners confuse their pets: You catch your dog chewing on one of your shoes. What's your reaction? If you're like most people, you'd say "No!," take away the shoe, then give Fido a rawhide bone to chew on. By doing this you're teaching Fido that anytime he wants a piece of rawhide, all he has to do is chew on one of your shoes!

Finally, here's another common mistake owners make - they assume their one, two, or even three-year-old dog is still teething and hope that Fido will eventually outgrow this behavior. What they don't realize is that the average dog completes teething by five or six months of age. If Fido is any older, it's not a teething problem; it's a chewing problem!

So what's the best way to deal with chewing problems? We need to teach Fido what and what not to chew on. And here's how:

Step 1 - Teach Fido What Not To Chew
To stop your pet from chewing on inappropriate items, use one of the products available at pet stores that are made specifically to deter him. Products such as Bitter Apple and Bitter Lime, when used according to their label directions, are non-toxic yet leave an unpleasant taste on any items they're applied to. Your dog will quickly learn that chewing on his rawhide is much tastier than chewing that bitter-tasting shoe or woodwork on which you've applied the product. Because most of these products contain alcohol, which evaporates quickly, you'll need to reapply them frequently. Occasionally a dog won't be deterred by the taste of the product you're using. If this is the case, switch to another brand. Never use products like hot peppers, mustard or Tabasco sauce!

Probably the best solution is a product called Bitter YUCK! - an odorless, water-based, non-sticky and easy to apply spray that will stop animals from chewing or licking on any number of problem areas. You can order Bitter YUCK online on this website

Step 2 - Give Fido Lots Of Chewing Options
Since dogs have a natural need to chew, provide Fido with alternatives that he can chew. Leave out a good supply of rawhide and toys in every room your pet spends time. And a "good supply" doesn't mean a couple of items. There should be so many bones and toys lying around that you're literally tripping over them! With access to such an abundance and variety of tasty items within his reach, Fido won't have the time for -- or the interest in -- your shoes, or other inappropriate items.

Step 3 - Give Fido Lots Of Exercise
As with many other types of behavioral problems, lack of exercise can be a major cause of chewing. After all, many dogs chew out of boredom. For dogs, chewing is a way to expend some of their energy. It's soothing and comforting and it helps pass the time in same way that some people drum their fingers on a table or run their fingers through their hair. So it's crucial to employ exercise as a preventative measure when dealing with a chewing problem. The success of Steps 1 and 2 will be minimal if Fido isn't receiving sufficient exercise. A dog, just as a child, has a certain amount of energy that must be expended. It's up to you to gear this into the right direction.

So give your pet a good workout before you leave him alone at home - especially if that's when he seems to be doing the bulk of his chewing. Whether it's an extra walk, some doggy aerobics or some puppy push-ups, this exercise period will allow your pet to use up some of his pent-up energy.

Summary;
The key to correcting your dog's chewing problem is to apply all three steps simultaneously and consistently. While each step addresses a facet of the chewing problem, using Step 1 will solve the problem. Apply these techniques each and every day until the problem is over and done with.

In some rare instances, a chewing problem may be related to a physiological problem. If you can honestly say that you've followed the aforementioned steps precisely and consistently over a sufficient period of time, you should consider having your pet examined by your veterinarian. Tooth and gum problems can occasionally be the cause of excessive chewing. A vitamin or mineral deficiency may also cause a dog to chew (or actually eat) inappropriate items. This is especially true if your pet constantly chews on paper, matches and wood.

The physiological causes of chewing problems, however, are relatively rare. The majority of chewing problems are caused by owners. By modifying your own behavior and following the steps I've outlined above, your Chippendale chairs, Gucci shoes and other prized possessions will stay intact.

Spring Weather Pet Alert

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

We are well into Spring! Enjoy the beautiful weather and outdoor activities with your pets but be aware of the hazards that accompany the season.

Whether you live in a private home or apartment, you'll be tempted to open windows to let the fresh air in. Be sure to keep screens or protective bars on your windows to prevent your pets from escapes and falls. For those of you owned by cats, window bars should be narrow enough to keep Kitty from squeezing through. And bird owners should make sure their feathered friends are protected from drafts.

Outdoor activities mean opening and closing doors more frequently. Be sure that you know where your pets are at all times.

Spring means it's time for spring-cleaning. Keep household cleansers and chemicals out of your pets' reach.

Some common types of houseplants and outdoor bushes, flowers and shrubs can be poisonous to your pets. If you have any doubts about the safety of the plants in your home or on your property, check with your local nursery or garden center.

Tools, especially gardening tools, have sharp points that can puncture delicate paws or worse. Do not leave your tools and implements out where your pets can get to them.

Speaking of gardening, use special care when mowing the lawn and applying fertilizers and lawn chemicals. Pets or neighborhood animals walking on treated lawns can get these products on their paws, then lick it off. If enough is ingested, illness or even death can result. Read and follow the manufacturers' directions and warnings.

The warmer weather means barbeques. Great smells wafting off the grill are dangerous temptations to our pets. Be sure to keep them away from hot grills.

As the boating and beach season begins, it's important to remember that not all pets know how to swim. If you're planning to take Fido out on a boat, you might want to consider getting him a doggy life-preserver - yes, they are available! And remember, fish hooks can be very painful if they become embedded in tiny paws or curious noses.

NEVER leave your pet unattended in your car. While I am against this practice in any weather, it is particularly true in the warmer weather. Don't lull yourself into a false sense of security by leaving the windows open. This may not prevent heat stroke and may even encourage the theft of your beloved pet.

By following the above suggestions, you and your pet can safely enjoy the season!

Questions & Answers

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Possible False Pregnancy
Dog seems to be in a trance
Q. Hi. Hope you can help! I have a 2 yr old rott, female, spayed, who usually has the SWEETEST temperament. Every once in awhile does this "thing" where she goes into a "trance", seemingly not knowing where she is or who we are.

Before she was spayed, the vet said it may be a false pregnancy as she would take an item (like a hat) and be real protective of it. she hadn't done it since she's been spayed and last night we found her in the corner of the den DROOLING like a madman, her eyes looked SCARY kind of like transparent almost and she was acting REALLY weird. looking at us like she did not know us or where she was and would not eat (she's usually on a CONSTANT quest for food!) We were so worried we tried everything to snap her out of it even threw her in the pool! its noon the next day and she's ALMOST back to normal.

Have you ever heard of this behavior in rotts or any other dogs? She's SO smart, and we just got a pug puppy and she is SO gentle and loving with her, they are buds. We love Dakota so very much ANY help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thank you.
Lisa

A. Your vet's idea of a false pregnancy is still a possibility. Even a spayed dog will occasionally suffer from a false pregnancy. I would recommend feeding the dog smaller amounts of food more frequently throughout the day. It's healthier and may stop the constant searching for food. The trance you described has me more concerned. I would ask your vet to refer you to a veterinarian that specializes in neurological problems, as with human medicine. There are many specialists available in the veterinary field as well.
Good luck, Hugs & Kisses,
Warren Eckstein

Subject: Crazy cat
Q. I'm writing regarding my mothers cat, which is part Siamese in him. I'm starting to believe that this cat is not a cat, but a dog. His day starts around 4:00 A. m.-he wakes-up anybody he can to feed him a little snack. Then he will chase you around until you let him outside.

My mom had he declawed when he was little because he climbed curtains and acted bizarre. He likes nobody but my mother. He could be sitting on the floor and suddenly spring up and literally bite someone. He once did that to my brother-in-law, sunk his teeth right through his jeans and drew blood!!! When you talk to him it's like he's answering you, he grunts back.

Two friends were here one day, the one was scratching him and he went over and bit the other you have to tip the chair over practically. We found him the other day in the car in my daughters car seat. When my mom goes away, he destroys the house, won't come in and etc. She tells him, let's go to bed, and he goes in and gets on the bed. He doesn't bite her, comes when she calls him, he literally talks and answers her!!! If you move the furniture around he loses his mind and stalks around the house.

Do you have any answers as to what is wrong with this freak? Sometimes we have to lock the cat up when company comes.

A. It's not unusual for cats to have a different time schedule than their owners. Cats are nocturnal by nature. The act that the family is getting up to feed and play with the cat at 4:00 am is just reinforcing his behavior.

I would suggest feeding and playing late in the evening, just prior to the family going to sleep. Try not to respond to the cat in the morning. I know it's easier said than done, but after a few weeks of the family ignoring his 4:00 am rising, he will get the idea.

With regard to his biting, let me state for the record that I am 100% against declawing. The behavior you describe is not atypical of a declawed cat. When you remove their claws, which are one of their best defense mechanisms, very often there's a major increase in biting! The best way to get control of this situation is to only stroke the cat for short periods and walk away before he becomes aggressive. If you notice any aggressive behavior, walk away or use a loud noise like a can filled with 20 pennies. Shake it in conjunction with the word NO!

-Warren Eckstein -

Dog - Rolling in Bathtub and Mouthing
Q. Hi, I have a 10 month old Rottie? The mother was Pure Rottie but not sure about the father. He is now 92 lbs at 10 months old and has two problems I would like explained.

One-this dog loves to get into the bathtub. He rolls around and acts silly and will sometimes want to drink the water from the spout. Is this normal?

Two-this is more important. This dog likes to put his mouth on you all the time. He will grab your hands, shirtsleeves, arms, fingers, etc. He closes his mouth around them and doesn't want to let go. Now some may consider this a bite but he doesn't seem to use that much strength, although with his teeth are sharp he never breaks the skin. I read somewhere where Rotties are very oral dogs. Is this the meaning? Thanks
Sandy H.

A. Dear Sandy,
First of all it's not unusual for any dog to enjoy rolling around in the bathtub. One of the reasons for that is the coolness of the ceramic and the second reason would be, no matter how clean your bathtub is, there is going to be a strong scent of the owner there and the dog likes to roll in that to get the scent on him.

The other problem that we are talking about is the fact that he is very mouthy. It's not specific to any breed to have an oral complex like this, however, what I would recommend doing is first of all increasing the exercise factor. When the dog is being really mouthy, rather than yelling at the dog and correcting him, you should put him on his leash and collar and go through some of the basic obedience commands to re-establish some firm positive authority with him. Also, you may want to start giving him a specific toy when he is really mouthy so that his focus is on the toy and not on you. Some corrections that work occasionally are the bitter products that are available on the market. Spray it on your hands prior to playing with the dog as well.

The oral problem that the dog has could be caused by any number of reasons. It could be due to being a part of an excessively large litter he might have stayed with his mom a little bit too long. It's nothing to worry about, he's only 10 months old. Chances are, if you are consistent with the exercise and using your obedience training, this problem will dissipate.
Good luck, good training.
Hugs & Kisses,
Warren

Pets and Anger -
Avoid arguing in front of your pets
Q. Dig Warren Eckstein's show. Was half listening to AM 710 here in the NY area and heard a sort of public service announcement regarding pets & anger....I am a bit concerned for a particular pet regarding this matter, & would greatly appreciate it if someone could please tell me what that announcement said.

A. Dear Sue & Winnie Poo Girl,
The announcement you are talking about was in effect suggesting to people that they should not argue or get angry in front of their pets. Dogs, cats and other animals are very sensitive to loud noises and really do pick up on the emotions of people when they are in an argument. It's the same effect that fighting parents have on their children. This can create a very shy dog, or in some cases, aggressiveness on the dog's part towards people when they are talking loudly.

If you must argue, and we all have to get into our disagreements once in awhile, I recommend going into another room. I do believe that arguing and fighting in front of your pet is psychologically abusive and definitely psychologically harmful. Hugs & Kisses,
Warren

Puppy Training -
Seperation Anxiety and peeing in crate
Q. Dear Warren,
My wife and I have a 13 week old Rhodesian Ridgeback, named Chloe, which we adopted at 8 weeks. She is a wonderful addition to our family and we are very happy with her. My wife and I both had dogs growing up and we even took the time to read a few books on raising a puppy prior to getting her. She really adapted well to our home. But unfortunately, Chloe has developed a problem over the last 2 weeks which has caused great concern.

The breeder began crate training her at a young age (before we received her) and we have continued with the same. She arrived via airplane in a small crate. We used that crate for 3 more weeks until she grew out of it. We now use a metal crate 24" X 24" X 36" which has been reduced to approx. 10" deep X 24" wide.

We learned that reducing the size of the crate may help reduce the risk of an accident. Chloe is able to sleep from 9:30 PM to 5:30 or 6:00 AM without the need for a potty break. We let her go potty just before we put her in the crate at 9:00 AM or so when we go to work and by 11:30 AM or noon, when I am able to return to feed her, she has peed in her crate.

I clean the crate and put her back in for 2 or 3 hours in the afternoon and sure enough she pees again. The neighbors say that sometimes during our absence, Chloe yelps and barks (at times for up to 30 minutes or so).

For the first few weeks, we used the small crate in the bedroom for her to sleep in and the larger crate down stairs in the living room for the daytime when we are not home. We initially used a doggy pad with a soft sheet for her to lay on while in the metal crate.

Due to this problem, we eliminated the sheet and then the pad all together, only using a few sheets of newspaper. We did this hoping to make it uncomfortable for her if she has another accident. Unfortunately, the accidents continued and she would just tear up the newspaper afterwards.

Just today, we decided to put her in the crate with nothing on the floor and only a small toy for her to play with. We monitor her water intake and she is let out to eliminate every hour or so.

What can we do to correct this problem without quitting our jobs and never leaving her alone? The local veterinarians haven't been too helpful with ideas. Can puppies suffer from separation anxiety??? How can we help her to get past this?

Any advice you may have for my wife and I will be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for your time and attention to our problem and we look forward to hearing you again on Washington DC's MIX 107.3 FM radio station.

A. Dear John & Belle McGaha,
Yes, it is very common for dogs to suffer from separation anxiety. We are living in a latchkey dog world where dogs are left for long periods of time by themselves.

First of all, let me state for the record that I am not pro crate-training at all. I think it causes more problems than it resolves. What I would recommend doing is finding an area in the house, perhaps an area in the kitchen, that you can gate off. Make sure you neutralize the floor, using one of the odor neutralizers that are available on the market, before putting Chloe in there.

Start off by finding an area that Chloe is comfortable with. Put two food dishes down, instead of one, one on each side of that area plus a lot of her toys. Leave a radio on for her, as loud as you can, without disturbing the neighbors and I would also recommend getting her on a regular schedule, in terms of taking her outside.

Housebreaking should not take more than 12 - 14 days. Part of the problem is that because of the crate, Chloe became accustomed to staying with the mess therefore it doesn't bother her as much as it would bother a dog that hadn't gone through the crate training. I recommend confinement in a small area. As she's behaving, increase the area a little bit at a time, or decrease it according to how frequently she's having the accidents. This should be very beneficial to you. Start your basic training at a very young age.

In terms of the separation anxiety, one of the things I would recommend doing is, even when you are home with Chloe, start going into another room and leaving her by herself for short periods, or go out of the house, coming back in five or ten minutes later so she doesn't assume that every time you leave it's going to be for a long period of time.

Another good idea that might be beneficial to you is finding one item that the Chloe absolutely adores, and the only time she gets that item is when you are gone. Pick it up immediately upon coming home, so again her focus is on something different when you leave. This should not be a major problem and should be resolved relatively rapidly.
Good luck, good training.
Hugs & Kisses,
Warren

Dogs - Fighting and Breaking up a Fight
Q. Dear Warren
We have a Lab - age 7 & a springer spaniel - age 3. They are both assertive with one another. Our lab, Allie is the alpha - Our springer, Xena still occasionally wants to be. They have had a few fights, but no one had been bitten although they sound and act aggressive during the encounter. They are good friends and play with one another constantly. The problems occur when they both want the same toy.

A few days ago they got into a frienzed fight out of nowhere over a rawhid chew. I was on a lounge chair - they were on either side by my feet and somehow one of them got my foot. Reaction was to pull my foot away and ended up at the emergency room with a deep 2" rip on my foot Also several punctures on my wrist still trying to separate them. Believe it or not they both came away without scratch and immediately became the best of friends.

The question is "what is the best way to break a dog fight"? I don't want them to hurt each other, and know I handled the situation badly. We love these girls so much and "yes, they are spoiled. Both went to obediance school and listen to my husband and I gladly - How can such sweet dogs turn on each other like this and what do we do? Would pepper spray be a humane way to stop them? Would sincerely appreciate any help on this matter. Also, I've heard about "springer rage" can you elaborate on this? Thank you so much Warren. Looking forward to hearig from you.
Norma.

A. Dear Norma,
First of all, let me clarify the "Springer Rage" Syndrome. Years ago there was a problem because of the over breeding and popularity of the breed. However, the Springer breeders, for the most part, have alleviated the problem of what was called "Springer Rage." In terms of Allie and Xena fighting, it's not unusual for any two living things in a household to get into disagreements. However, very frequently owners don't realize that two dogs stuck in the same backyard, in the same house, day in and day out are going to get really aggressive from time to time with each other.

What I recommend doing is taking them on neutral turf occasionally, perhaps a special walk to a park, or maybe to a beach. The concept is to get them out of the environment where either one of them has to feel territorial or possessive. If there is a problem with possessiveness over toys, you may be putting down six toys or even a dozen toys at a time. What I recommend doing is putting down many toys, maybe 20 or 30 toys at a time, and adding new ones, three or four at a time. The more toys down, the less apt they are to fight. In terms of your specific question, breaking up a fight, what I find to be the best resolution is to go either to a marine hardware store or perhaps a sporting goods store and purchase one of those loud air horns that people use at sporting events, or when they are on small boats. One blast coming from you when the two dogs are fighting with each other should be a good way to resolve the problem.

As with people that love each other, usually the fights go on and after the fights, everything is forgiven. However, the fights can become dangerous, so what I would recommend doing is exposing them to neutral turf and using that air horn.
Good luck and good training. Hugs & Kisses,
Warren

Dogs - Housesoiling Problems
Q. Dear Warren
I have a 2 year-old male yorkie who pees in the house all the time. He knows that it is wrong and if he hears the word "pee" or sees us cleaning up his pee, he will run and hide. We used to live in a house with a doggy door and he would go outside all the time. Then we had to move into an apartment where he could not go out when he wanted to. Now, we are back in a house with a big yard and the doggy door and he is scared to go outside. I will take him out and set him in the grass and he is afraid to move.

He has also started pooping in the house and he has never done that. We just bought a brand new home and do not want the smell of dog urine on our new carpet and furniture. We did get him neutered and he did not do anything in the house for a week and we thought he was cured, but there is something about the back yard that he does not want to go out there. Have you ever heard of such a thing and what can I do to keep him from using the bathroom in the house? We also have a 6 year-old Basenji who will not go in the back yard either. He holds it until we get home and take him out in the front yard.
Thanks!
April

A. Dear April,
This unusual problem seems to be due to the location of your new home. Perhaps there are some other animals in the area. I don't know if you live in an area where there may be deer, raccoons or possum. Sometimes small dogs, when they smell that scent in the backyard, are a little fearful of going out there, however, that would not account for the Basenji, which are tough little dogs. There is obviously some scent in your backyard that's causing the dogs not to go.

The best way to resolve that problem is to spend more time out there, not specifically for them to go to the bathroom. Maybe take them out there after they've gone on the front lawn and just sit there with them with a special toy or a special treat or some special item, even if it's late at night or early in the morning. Let them get comfortable out in that yard with you. I think that will help make a major difference.

In terms of the doggie door, some dogs are afraid of new doggie doors. I would tape it open if possible and have you or someone else that they know on one side and someone on the other side. Make it a fun game and let them know as soon as they go out they can come right back in, but definitely tape that top of the door up so it is consistently open. I think that would be helpful as well. In the house now where the dog has had accidents, I would use an odor neutralizer to clean it up.

The other thing I would recommend doing is starting to place some of the dogs' favorite food in a little paper plate in the areas where they have the accidents. The reason for that is dogs will rarely go where they see their own food. You don't have to have a new house that smells. Just follow my advice and I'm sure it will work well for you.
Good luck! Hugs & Kisses,
Warren

Rabbits: Using the Litter Box
Q. I have a six-week-old rabbit and it only uses its litter box once in a while. I have tried treats, praises and patience. Do I leave him alone in his cage until he figures it out or do I let him out to play? Any dvice?
Jennifer

A. Welcome to the world of owning a rabbit. Rabbits are great pets and relatively easy to litter box-train. What I recommend doing is keeping the rabbit in a small area. Make sure you use an odor neutralizer to clean up any areas where the rabbit has previously had accidents. Place several small food dishes around the area, as rabbits tend not to go to the bathroom where they have their food. By placing the food around the area, and the litter box in one corner of the small area, the rabbit should get the idea rapidly.

You may want to try putting some of the rabbit droppings in the litter box prior, and if the rabbit starts having accidents in other areas besides the litter box, just move the food dishes around. He will get the ideA. Use the odor neutralizer, give him a hug and a kiss, and in no time at all your rabbit will be totally litter box-trained.

Q. How to housebreak a stray dog?
A. First of all, let me thank you for taking this stray dog in and finding it a good home. Sometimes housebreaking a dog when they are going through a heat cycle is a little difficult, especially if she's never been totally housebroken before. However, housebreaking should not take more than 12 - 14 days.

The first step that you need to understand is to confine the dog, but not in a crate. Gate off a small area where the dog's bed, food, toys and all of her other items are. Start taking the dog out on a pretty consistent basis and when she does eliminate outside, give her a tremendous amount of praise. I mean hug and kiss her until she doesn't want it anymore.

Please note that the most important aspect of housebreaking is to neutralize areas where the dog has gone. I recommend an odor neutralizer to clean where the dog is confined. As the dog starts keeping that small area clean, you can start increasing it gradually by moving the gate. It's relatively easy to housebreak a dog, however, we have a dog here that's traumatized by being a stray and is going through the heat cycle. Have her spayed, confine her in a small area, increase the area gradually, feed her a good solid dog food and you should have a housebroken dog in no time at all.

Rambunctious Dog
Q. This is our first dog - we got her about six weeks old from a county pound. She was already spayed, but is very rambunctious. She has slipped her collar, gotten out of a Halti collar, slipped out the door as it was closing, etc. and always heads two doors away. We went through courses of training at PETsMART store. She is at home alone during the day due to us working. Would going to a regular trainer help or is it US that needs the training? Will she be calming down soon? HELP!

A. Congratulations on your first dog and thank you for adopting from a local shelter. Having a dog that has been out on the streets, and again we don't know exactly what her background is, can create some difficulties for the dog.

What I recommend doing is some good basic training. Now I know you said you were taking her to a pet store for training, but the training should really be accomplished by the family and in your home, where the dog is really having the problems. This is so you can confront the everyday environment the way the dog sees it. I recommend picking up a good book, start training her yourself and remember that a lot of exposure and socializing are really important. Will the dog calm down? The answer is yes, if you calm her down.

Sounds to me like she's a very bright and intelligent dog. Focusing on the basic commands, and also making your yard and home more interesting for her will go a long way.

Remember that she was out on the streets, probably never seeing the same thing twice, so I would recommend rotating her toys and increasing the exercise in the house. If you feel more comfortable hiring a professional trainer, I have no problem with that, but make sure you get great references and make sure you have someone that is going to come into the home and work with the family.

Exercise, mental stimulation by rotating the toys, and some good basic training by you, or with a professional, will go a long way in calming the dog gown. Don't get frustrated. Remember the dog was out on the streets and we don't know much about her. It's going to take time, but this is the type of dog that always turns out to be the very best. Good luck and good training!

Hugs & Kisses,
Warren.

What to do for a finicky eater?
Q. Dear Mr. Eckstein,
We have an 8 month old Jack Russell Terrier, Nigel. He is a frustratingly picky eater. He simply disdains the Wysong growth formula we put out for him three times a day. We've tried adding doggie-gravy, liverwurst, chicken livers, you name it. We've been told to just leave his food down for a few minutes, and take it up if he doesn't eat it. We're trying that, but it doesn't seem to help. We are clicker training him, so he gets treats, but they are very small treats, so I can hardly imagine he's getting his fill. He's always ready to beg for food whenever we're eating (we never give him anything from the table), and he happily eats any snacks he can get a hold of. He will also eat bits of kibble from our hands most of the time.

When we first got him at 3 months, he was eating Hill Science Diet. He didn't want to eat at all then, which we belatedly realize is normal for a puppy in a new home (we didn't then). We got nervous, and we tried several different types of all-natural dog food which we had researched. Of course, he didn't really eat them either. Then we tried following the recipes in "Dr Pitcairn's Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats", which Nigel enjoyed for about 2 weeks before thumbing his nose at that, too. After varying the ingredients in "Dr Pitcairns" he lost all interest. He ate Wysong for a few days, and now hasn't eaten a regular meal in days.

We are very concerned for his proper growth and development. We do give him vitamins from Dr's Foster & Smith's catalog. The fact that he's not eating regularly makes his evacuations much harder to predict, which we're also not too happy about.

We're desperate. Do you have any advice you could give us? We'd be truly grateful.
Sincerely,
Lars F. Dada L.

A. Dear Lars and Dada
First of all, it's not unusual for a puppy to have a finicky appetite and changing the foods around was one of the mistakes you made early on. By doing so, we tend to confuse our puppies.

What I advise doing is picking one food and sticking with it. The brand you mentioned is fine however, some of the better-known brands are equally as good. I recommend heating the food up - popping it in the microwave for a mini-second or two - dogs eat with their nose, no pun intended. In other words, if it smells good, they're more apt to eat it. So sometimes just by popping it in the microwave or heating it up a little bit, the dog will start responding to the food a little bit better.

I also suggest using my own HUGS & KISSES vitamin-mineral supplements - it's been known to help stimulate the appetites of finicky puppies, as well. In terms of begging at the table, try feeding him at the same time you're eating - I think that would also be beneficial. As I said, many of the foods on the market are fine - the most important thing at this stage of the game is to get the dog eating consistently. Don't bounce around from food to food pick a quality food, a brand name is preferable.

And then I recommend supplementing with the vitamin-mineral treat alongside. You might try feeding him small amounts of food throughout the day however, that can sometimes cause a problem as well. If that doesn't start working, then just feed him twice a day, which is the minimum amount of times that any dog should be fed.

I hope Nigel starts eating and doing well maybe you'll be writing me another letter in the near future saying, "Warren, how do I stop him from eating?!" God luck, and let me know how you're making out.

Biting Poodle
Q. Dear Warren,
I have a toy poodle who will be two years old in October. I love Sparky dearly, but he constantly "puppy" bites me (my feet, my hands, etc.). I tell him to stop, but he continues until he feels like stopping. Sometimes it hurts. What can I do to discourage the behavior? He also does it to company.
Susan S.

A. Dear Susan,
With regard to your toy poodle Sparky, his puppy biting on your feet and hands indicates to me that either he was separated a little bit too young from his litter, or perhaps he spent too much time with his litter. In other words, he views you as a littermate versus his pet human family member. Now, I'm sure that when he's nipping at your fingers and at your feet, you're probably giving him a lot of attention, because it hurts, saying "NO, NO, NO" and he's probably responding to that negative attention.

At this point, what I would recommend doing is picking up a product called "Bitter YUCK". Prior to playing with Sparky, spray some on your hands and feet so that whenever he goes to bite onto you, he gets this hideous taste in his mouth. Be consistent with this; it should help considerably.

Another step you may want to take to discourage this behavior is when he is really excited or when company comes over, find one or two very special items (besides all of his regular toys) that only come out when company is around, or when the two of you are alone and he is very excited. This way we can distract him and transfer his focus onto the special toys that he only gets at these times, versus your hands and feet. Use the BEST BEHAVIOR, use the BITTER APPLE, be consistent; I'm sure in no time at all, your toes on your feet and your fingers on your hands will be fine, and you'll have a happy-go-lucky puppy. Good training, good luck!
Hugs & Kisses,
Warren

Stubborn Little Cockatiel
Q. Hi Warren,
I've got a bright, stubborn little cockatiel. He's just about a year old and I've had him since October '99. He was supposed to have been hand raised but it took me four months to tame him to where he was responsive and had become very sweet and obedient. I then boarded him for three days with the people I had bought him from while I went away for the weekend. When I returned he refused to "talk" to me for three days. Very shortly thereafter I took him to a vet to have his wings clipped and for a check-up since his droppings were sticking to him. That really traumatized him.

Since then, he has become very distrustful and very independent. He seems happy, sings up a storm and constantly yells "Hi Sweetheart" "OK Sweetheart" and when I cover him up at night says "Goodnight Sweetheart." He also says "Kiss Kiss" and "Mackie Good Boy." When I clean the cage in the morning, he won't let me take him out but wants to come out on his own. He climbs to the top of the cage and will either sit there or fly down to the floor and starts following me around the kitchen. He'll climb on my finger at that point and will sit on my arm while I get his food, etc. From there he'll come onto my finger and I can put him back in his cage, but if he's on top of his cage he won't come onto my finger, or if he gets on my shoulder, he refuses to come off and runs from side to side or to the middle of my back and won't "step" when I asked him to. He also nips at me when I try to pick him up. Doesn't bite, but threatens.

Warren, what can I do to make him just a little more obedient? If he were, I could give him much more freedom. Help!! Incidentally, his name is Mackie (from Mack the Knife) and I think HE'S got ME completely under his control.

A. First of all, in terms of the aggression of your bird, it was probably created (as you observed) when he went back to the people you purchased him from. It's not unusual for a small cockatiel to be a little hand-shy; very frequently when they're biting at your fingers, it's not so much aggressive behavior as it is what we call "perch testing."

It sounds to me like the bird might have been perch testing at the beginning and people would be pulling their hands away, making the bird fearful of hands. So what you need to do is overcome that phobiA. The best way to do that is to keep your hand in the cage at night, when it's pitch black and the cage is covered and there's nothing for Mackie to focus on - just stick your hand in there. Let him get really familiar with your hand, being around the scent of your hand - you may even want to take the cover of his cage and really get your scent all over it by rubbing it with your hands, so he becomes comfortable with it.

Don't back away when the bird bites, because each time you back away, you're creating (again) a situation where the bird feels what he's doing is the right thing and therefore, the fear is warranted. Put your hand in the cage; it's not a Macaw, it's not going to bite that badly! The most important thing is to get your scent in there, keep your hand in there when it's pitch black at night - it's not going to happen overnight. Give him his favorite treats during the day when you're putting your hand in there and he will come around.

He sounds like a young enough bird, and having worked with literally thousands of birds with this type of problem -- I can assure you that, with consistency on your part, in a few weeks you'll start seeing Mackie's confidence build up and him being more and more comfortable getting on your finger.

Using the words "step" or "step up" is fine each and every time he gets on your finger; however, there may be a negative connotation with that word now. So pick up a new word and start from scratch - use "up" or whatever word you want. But pick out a new word, so that he doesn't associate the old word with maybe some negative things that happened in the past.

Good luck,
Hugs & Kisses,
Warren

Subject--New Guinea Pig
Q. We just got a Guinea pig a couple of weeks ago. He seems healthy and normal, but since this is our first pet we aren't sure about one thing. Sometimes when we are holding him he will poop and reach down and eat it. Is that normal or will that make him sick? He eats all the time, so I don't think he is hungry. Do you have any answers? Plus, we are having a hard time getting him to use his water bottle. Are they suppose to drink a lot or do they get it from all the veggies and fruits that they eat?
Lynn

A. Dear Lynn,
Guinea pigs are known for their great appetites and their need to drink lots of water First, the poop eating may have been to get him used to the bottle, or try a different bottle. Guinea pig vitamins are available that you add to the water and this may help with the poop eating. Feed him not too many greens and only dark leaf varieties. Some specialty treats are available for Guinea pigs. Try getting a kiddy pool with no water in it, of course. It's a great place for them to exercise.

Fleas - Taming the Creepy Critters

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Advice on how to curb a flea and tick problem on your pets

Flea Facts:

Flea saliva has been called the most irritating substance known to man.
Fleas accelerate 50 times faster than the space shuttle after takeoff.
Fleas can jump 150 times their length equivalent to a human jumping 1000 feet.
Fleas can carry tapeworm, typhus, allergic reactions, and anemia.
One female flea can produce 200,000 in 60 days.

PREVENTION
Of course the best defense is prevention. As far as prevention goes, fleas are less likely to attack a pet who is in good health and has a healthy coat. Good nutrition, including supplements and conditioners, go a long way in helping your pet cope with fleas.

Brushing your pet on a regular basis may also help, especially if your pet spends time outdoors. Brushing helps remove any fleas and flea eggs that your pet may have picked up.

Check your pet regularly using "Warren's White Towel Test." By rolling your pet in a white towel, you will see the fleas and flea dirt (brown specks) if fleas are present. If you suspect that you have fleas in your house, put on a pair of white socks, and walk around for a bit. Take them off, and dip them in water - if you see red specks, that indicates flea dung and you should treat for fleas. For people who live in suburban areas, keep your lawn cut short. This helps keep your lawn drier, and fleas prefer a moist environment.

Putting flea and tick collars and/or treatments on your pet can also help keep them safe. There are many options for you to use, both over-the-counter and prescription. Whatever treatment you decide to use, be sure that you read all directions, or talk to your veterinarian about proper applications, since these treatments often vary based on the weight and age of your pet. Many treatments offer protection against fleas AND ticks, but be sure to read the instructions first.

TREATING YOUR PET
If your pet tests positive for fleas after the white towel test, he or she can be shampooed, dipped, sprayed or dusted with a flea control product. If you opt to treat your pet yourself (instead of having your veterinarian or groomer do it), always follow the manufacturer's label directions, never mix products, and never use a product made specifically for dogs on cats or vice versa. Following the label directions is the best way to ensure the safe, effective removal without harming your pet.

If you opt to spray or dust, here's a helpful hint - wrap a towel around your pet for a few minutes after the product's application to help maximize the number of fleas killed.

If you find a tick on your dog, try to remove it as quickly as possible. Take a pair of tweezers, grasp the head of the tick, and pull it straight out. Don't believe any of the old wives' tales of putting alcohol or matches on the tick... that won't help! Once you've removed the tick, put it in a container of rubbing alcohol. Watch the area where the tick bit for any signs of allergy or reaction. If there is a reaction, you can take the tick to be tested for diseases.

Ticks usually nest in the head, neck and paw areas of your pet. Check your cat or dog every time they come inside for ticks... the earlier you find them, the less chance your dog will have problems or catch diseases.

NATURAL APPROACH TO FLEA CONTROL
As fleas become increasingly resistant to the synthetic chemicals, manufacturers are making their products stronger, and in some cases more dangerous.

I prefer a natural approach. You may want to try some of these natural alternatives.

Three organic flea fighters:

Pyrethin - - derived from flower heads.
D-limone -- by-product of the citrus industry
Organic Phosphates -- Diatomaceous Earth -- it's messy but can work well.

You can use these herbs and essential oils:

Cedar
Eucalyptus
Pennyroyal
Rosemary oil

And among many natural products now on the market you could try HERBAL FLEA SPRAY by NaturVet for your pets and pet bedding. It contains essential oils of Cedar and Rosemary and you can find it in my online store.

Some people, who prefer a natural approach to flea control, swear by adding brewers yeast or garlic to their pets' diets.

Use borax on carpets which will dry the fleas out

I make my own spray with lemons, grapefruit or limes - fleas do not like citrus! Take the skins of the citrus fruit, cut them into quarters and put them in a large pot. Cover with water and let them boil for several minutes. Turn off the heat and let them steep. When cool, strain off the fruit residue. You can spray directly on your dog or in the house. Since many cats hate citrus, it may not be a good idea for cats.

TREATMENT OF THE ENVIRONMENT
It is not sufficient to only treat your pet. The key to effective flea control requires a two-pronged approach - treatment of your pet, and treatment of your pet's environment. And if your pet spends any time in your yard, that means treatment of the yard, as well as treatment of your home.

Ideally, your pet's environment should be treated on the same day as your pet is treated. If you opt to do it yourself by using flea bombs in your home, it is critical to follow all the manufacturer's directions and warnings.

Another approach is the application of a water-based flea spray on your pet's bedding, carpets and other areas your pet frequents. Here, again, you must read and follow the manufacturer's label directions. It's also a good idea to wash your pet's bedding frequently. And if your pet sleeps with you, you'll need to wash your bedding frequently, too!

Vacuuming regularly will help pick up some of the fleas and their eggs. Cut up a flea collar and put it in your vacuum cleaner bag to ensure that the fleas and eggs you pick up will not survive to re-infest your home.

If your pet spends time in your yard, treat the outdoor environment with products commercially available. Remember, your pet might have been treated for fleas, but other animals (i.e., squirrels, stray cats) may carry them into your yard. Again, it's important to follow all label directions and warnings.

If you'd rather not do the treatment yourself, you can hire a professional exterminating company to do the job. Be sure to let them know about all the pets in your home, and ask them to use nontoxic products which eliminate the need for your family (including your four-footed members) to leave the house.

The key to successful flea control is the simultaneous treatment of your pet and the environment. By following the above, you can be flea-free.

Is your Fluffy getting too fat?

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Fat cats may be welcome at political fundraisers, but on your sofa, it's another story. If Fluffy seems to be putting on the pounds, she's not alone. Half the pets in the U.S. are overweight, and - just like it does for their human companions - it can create serious health problems. Warren Eckstein offers some advice to help you get your cats and dogs in good shape. Read some of his tips below.

OBESITY IS considered the most common form of malnutrition in cats and dogs. In fact, half the pets in America are considered obese or overweight. Dogs and cats can easily become overweight and it's often hard for owners to recognize because the weight gain is so gradual, and they also don't realize the impact a few extra pounds can have. One or two pounds may not sound like a lot, but for a 10-pound cat or small dog, this is equivalent to a person gaining more than 25 pounds.

How can you tell if your pet is overweight? You should be able to feel their ribs. They shouldn't be emaciated, of course, but you shouldn't have to dig for them either.

The excess weight can reduce the length of a pets' life by as much as 20 percent - in humans, this would equal nearly 15 years. Obesity can cause or exacerbate serious medical problems like hip dysplasia, arthritis, diabetes and respiratory problems. Keeping your pet healthy and physically fit requires both the right food and the right exercise.

TIPS TO CARE FOR YOUR OVERWEIGHT, LESS ACTIVE PET:

Less is more:

Reduce your pet's caloric intake by feeding him less, but more frequently and measuring the portions you feed him. Sometimes feeding out of several dishes is beneficial.

You can start out by cutting down the amount of food your cat or dog eats. If it's normally three cups a day of dry food, you can cut it to two. And to make it more appetizing, you can add no-fat chicken or beef bullion. If they eat canned food, you can dilute it with water.

No people food:

Thirty percent of petowners admit feeding Fluffy or Rex table scraps. Omit feeding him food from the table or scraps during food preparation.

Cut back on snacks:

Reduce the number of high-calorie treats you feed your pet each day. Also, more than half of pet owners say they feed treats to their furry family members as a way of showing affection. There are low-calorie alternatives to high-fat, store-bought snacks. Try carrots or melon.

Feed reduced-calorie formula: Many leading cat and dog food brands have a line for 'less active' pets and for 'senior' pets. When you do switch food, make sure you do it gradually, mixing in the new food with the old over a 7-10 day period, and as a double-check, always consult with your veterinarian before placing your pet on a weight management program because some diseases such as hypothyroidism and Cushing's disease can cause weight gain. Try giving your pet smaller meals, more frequently. This is a good strategy. Three times a day is a good goal.

If you have a finicky pet that doesn't like the diet food, try heating the food up for a second or two. It makes it smell better, and animals really respond to smell.

Combine exercise with diet management:

Of course, the most obvious is walking or running with your dog. But you can also try puppy push-ups, dancing with your pet, staircase sprints, nerf ball for city dwellers, tether ball, sit-ups and monkey in the middle.

Make certain plenty of fresh drinking water is available at all times.

Feeding schedule:

Ideally, only one person should feed the pet, or have a strict feeding schedule so the pet is not accidentally fed twice. Also, reduce competition. Multiple pets often compete for food, so separate them at mealtime. He suggests literally putting one pet in another room and shutting the door when you are feeding the other - not just separate dishes.

Also, if you have a cat and a dog, you can raise the cat food out of the reach of the dog.

And, just like with humans, moderation is key. You can give them a taste of peanut butter, but not the whole jar.

Dogs: Does size really matter?

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Tips to judge what breeds will fit best into your life

James Herriot wrote about all creatures great and small but when it comes to dogs is bigger really better? Does picking a pooch depend on who will fit into your lifestyle best - Mutt or Jeff? Warren Eckstein answers those hairy questions and more.

SMALL DOGS

Their "mini me" size and cute expressions delight their audience of pet owners. But don't let their little stature fool you - their "Napoleon complex" is real and many small dogs are tough as nails. Toy dogs will always be popular with city dwellers and people with limited living space. They make ideal apartment dogs and they minimize some of the bigger dog problems like shedding, long exercise periods, and cost of care. And, training aside, its still easier to control a 10-pound dog than a giant breed.

BIG DOGS

Giant breeds require a lot of exercise. Although smaller dogs don't need any less exercise, it takes less time and space to exercise them. An hour or two daily with the larger breeds would be considered a good amount.

People who are active, outdoor types and those who love their dogs around them a lot should consider getting a giant breed and because of their size, you always feel their presence. Large dogs are often good with children because they can take the rough-housing that little dogs often can't. But one caution: You need to watch big dogs with very young children because they can sometimes hurt the kids inadvertently.

Larger breeds tend to have shorter life spans than smaller breeds - big dogs generally live 6-10 years, small dogs, 10-14 years or longer.

Remember, the cost of everything goes up with size. For example, surgery requires more medication, bathing requires more shampoo and time, and larger dogs need more food and bigger toys.

Deciding on the size dog you want is a preference. There are not advantages or disadvantages to either one. Large dogs are gentle, love to cuddle and there is more dog for you to pet. The disadvantages are their shortened life span, the added expense, the fear they often elicit in people and the larger living quarters they require.

BREED HIGHLIGHTS

PAPILLON

These dogs probably originated in Spain. They average 6-10 pounds and are called papillon (French for butterfly) because of their ears. Experts say they were bred as working dogs, ratters, but most of the time you see them in old French paintings as lap dogs, adornments and that's how they live today.

They love to be pampered but still can act as good little watchdogs. They are great in apartments, good with kids and are generally affectionate.

GREAT DANE

Contrary to their name, Great Danes are from Germany. They are elegant, courageous and display great endurance. Great Danes were often referred to as super dogs because they hunted wild boar, and were used as guards and during wartime. You could definitely call these guys the gentle giants because they're good with kids.

POMERANIAN

This dog was originally a sled dog, known as a member of the Spitz family. Over the years, they've been bred down in size but because of their heritage, they have the heart of a big dog in the body of a small dog. They can act spirited, brash and often try to take over everything. They also like to be spoiled but are also good with children that they know. Pomeranians tend to have a short temper and weigh between 5-7 pounds.

IRISH WOLFHOUND

This is the world's tallest dog and can stand over 7 feet on its hind legs. The male dogs are about 120 lbs. and 32 inches at the shoulder. Originally they were bred to hunt giant elk and wolves and hunt with their eyes. (Many breeds hunt with their noses.) Wolfhounds need a fair amount of exercise - approximately an hour a day. They are great with kids, calm, sensitive and are often aware of their size so they compensate with gentleness. They've been around for 2,000 years and at one time were given as gifts from one king to another.

TOY XOLOITZCUINTLI

Pronounced show-lo-eats-quent-lee, these dogs are also known as "Mexican hairless" and are one of the world's oldest and rarest breeds. Thought to date back to 1500 B.C., they were bred for "therapeutic value." Since hairless dogs have a higher normal body temperature they were used as living hot water bottles. Xoloitzcuintli are hairless and odorless and originally hail from Mexico. They were used in religious rituals and are seen as a symbol of goodness and unselfish love. Plus, they were often buried with their owners and thought to be a guide into the afterlife. Xoloitzcuintli come in three sizes but the toys are generally less than six pounds.

ST. BERNARD

These dogs are very calm, easy-going and patient around kids. They were once used to pull carts and turn spits, as well as act as watchdogs and companions. Sometime after 1550 a working dog was brought up to a monastery in the high St. Bernard pass of the Swiss alps which is how they got their name. They are credited with saving lives and have been known to work together in teams. Known for being good rescue dogs, some stories have it that they work in groups of four to find victims in the snow - two lay down on either side of the victim for warmth, one licks the face to revive him or her, and the fourth goes for help.

CHIHUAHUA

It's the smallest dog in the world and can weigh less than one pound though their average weight is 5 lbs. They come from the Mexican city of Chihuahua and were, at one time, a status symbol for the ruling classes. However, the lower classes used them for food. Now, they are known as "clannish," that is, they prefer their own kind and can be temperamental. They are like owning a big dog in a little dog suit - they display the quintessential "Napoleon complex" and are not generally recommended for kids since they are so small that little kids can hurt them inadvertently.

NEWFOUNDLAND

These dogs can range from 130 to 150 pounds and come from a cold weather climate so they have a heavy coat to protect them from icy waters and webbed feet for swimming. Even though they're built for cold weather they are OK in a hotter climate - their coat insulates them from the heat as well. They are often used as water rescue dogs and are as much at home in the water as on land. They are well-known for saving children and are very loyal, intelligent and sweet. Newfoundlands need a fair amount of exercise - 1/2 hour to an hour a day of running time. They are excellent with kids.

YORKSHIRE TERRIER OR YORKIE

These little dogs are a bundle of assertiveness. Even if you have 10 other dogs in the house your Yorkie will be in charge. They know how cute they are and take advantage of it all the time, but they are great apartment dogs and easily litter box trained. They can be good watchdogs but need lots of grooming.

Keeping Pet Birds

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Warren Eckstein chats with MSNBC.com about the joys and challenges of keeping birds as pets. Chat questions were answered on the phone through a typist. This is the transcript of that phone call. Chat producer Will Femia moderates.

MSNBC-Will Femia:
Ok! We're ready to go! I have questions up to my beak, so let's get rolling. Welcome back pet expert Warren Eckstein.

Warren Eckstein:
Good to be back.

Question from Thatwhichconcernsnone:
Hello! My brother is interested in getting a bird. What would be a great type for the inexperienced 13 year old? (perhaps inexpensive too?) Thankyou!

Warren Eckstein:
The bird I would recommend most as a beginner bird is a cockatiel. One of the reasons for that is that I call them the clowns of the bird world. They're not as large as the bigger parrots, but they're easier to handle. And they're not great talkers, however the males are better talkers than the females. As a matter of fact, one of the best ways to tell male from female is that the noisy ones are usually male and the females are usually the quiet ones. And cockatiels are generally very gentle birds. As far as price, and this is a ballpark figure, $80-$200 dollars, depending on the color. Also, one other tip, an important recommendation is to make sure you get a hand fed baby.

Question from Pug:
Is it cruel to keep just one bird? Do they need a partner?

Warren Eckstein:
It's not. If you have the type of time to spend with the bird, sometimes it's better to have just one so they bond better with the owner. Take love birds for example. Everyone thinks love birds should be kept in pairs, but if you want the love bird to love you, one is better. :) That can also work against you because some birds, like the cockatoo, who need a lot of bonding, he may bond with the owner and then get very stressed out when the owner is not around.

MSNBC-Will Femia:
Ah! We have someone with just that problem.

Question from john:
have cockatiel .... whenever i leave the room, it keeps calling to me until i return... anyway to stop this ..... also can they get along with parakeets ?

Warren Eckstein:
They can get along with parakeets, but any time you introduce a new toy or pet, you have to do it very gradually. So I would put one cage next to the other cage for several weeks, perhaps months, to see how they react to each other.

In terms of the excessive screaming, cockatiels are one of those birds that do desire a lot of attention. One of the best ways to resolve that is to keep the bird stimulated. Cockatiels are acrobats, so giving them a lot of things to climb on and play on may help. Also, as hard as it is, don't respond to the screaming, because each time you do, you're just reinforcing the habit. Also with the cockatiel, and any bird, the largest cage possible, provided he can't stick his head between the bars, is best. One more tip, avoid cages with the guillotine type doors. Very often that type of door that slides up and down like that scares the bird. A better kind is the type that flops down. Also one that lets you get your whole hand in there so he doesn't have squeeze through.

Question from Heather:
What do you think about keeping a parakeet in a dorm room? Is there any reason why they would need a bigger space?

Warren Eckstein:
No, that's probably a good idea because there's probably a lot of activity. Just watch what you say so he doesn't pick up bad language. :) One important note: A lot of kids who live in dorms cook in their rooms, this can be very dangerous to birds. Any kind of Teflon or self cleaning oven can be deadly to birds.

MSNBC-Will Femia:
I saw that in the article. Is it just cooking in those things?

Warren Eckstein:
Yes, when they get over-heated they emit fumes that are deadly to birds.

Question from frankie:
Is it dangerous to clean out the birdbaths using the bare hands?

Question from Ella:
I've been to pet stores that make you clean your hands before touching the birds. I assume that's because they're susceptible to disease. How does that work once you get them in the home? Also, do they carry any diseases that I should be aware of?

Warren Eckstein:
There are very few diseases we'll get from birds. We have more to worry about birds getting them from us. Hats off to that pet store that makes you wash your hands before handling the birds, that's a great idea. Most people don't wash their hands before playing with the bird, but they should. Any time you're working with any animals and cleaning up after them, it's always a good idea to wash your hands with a good disinfectant soap.

Question from Delphi:
I have a 3-year old African Gray. She has been chewing her feathers for 2 years, but now has got two bare patches above her wings where the skin is exposed. Is there any medication that I can get to calm her down? She's generally a happy, active bird.

Warren Eckstein:
Is it a Congo or a Timneh?

Question from Delphi:
Congo gray.

Warren Eckstein:
With intelligence comes sensitivity. When they feel emotionally lacking, the African Greys will actually bare their bodies. They become feather pluckers and feather pullers. With the African Grey, the important thing to do is keep them as mentally stimulated as you possibly can. And misting them once a day with room temperature water may be beneficial as well, but the mental stimulation is key here. And obviously, make sure he's on a good variety diet. There are medications you can get from the vet, but the medication is not the problem, it's the mental stimulation the bird needs. It's very, very common, and 99% of the time it's lack of stimulation or things to do. They're very inquisitive birds and their diet is a little more specialized than other birds.

Question from Pug:
My cockatiel knows 4-5 phrases, such as Bon Jour, I'm a pretty bird, etc. How much more can I expect his to learn?

Warren Eckstein:
The cockatiels are ok talkers. The largest vocabulary I've ever worked with personally is up to 50 words or phrases, so keep talking and good luck.

Question from pilot:
I have a halfmoon conure, with the orange crest. What are his talking capabilities, and how can I train him best?

Warren Eckstein:
They're not the greatest talkers in the world. Of all of the conures, their speaking is fairly good. The blue crowned would be the best, but the sun conure is good too. The best way to teach any bird to talk is preferably with a child or female voice. It doesn't have to be, but they respond better to the high pitch. I recommend teaching a bird to talk at night when it's pitch black and the cage is covered. The reason for that is this way the bird is not distracted from what you're saying and can focus better on the sounds. Conures are the puppies of the bird world.

Question from Vickie Huelsman:
I have a Moluccan cockatoo, African Grey and Yellow Nape Amazon. They all share a one-egg cheese omelet every a.m. They really enjoy this and it is always the first item out of their food bowel that they choose to eat. My question: Is the cheese safe for the birds' consumption? I have read somewhere that cheese is hard to digest. My birds show no ill effects, but I don't want to do them any harm.

Warren Eckstein:
The only problem I have with the cheese is that cheese has a lot of salt, and salt is not good for birds. Variety is important for bird diet. Birds can eat almost anything that we eat, other than chocolate, caffeine, avocados, salty food, rhubarb, and mushrooms. My birds love to share pasta with me, well cooked meat occasionally for protein, omelets occasionally. Anytime you give your bird something cooked, make sure it's cooked well. Plus the specialized food from pet stores, but make sure it's a variety, not just pet store food.

Question from Mary Murillo:
Isn't it important to keep a bird's cage clean? My daughter has a cockatiel and she claims that it's okay for the bottom of the cage to fill up with debris and droppings as long as the bird is above it on the 2nd level. I wonder if this is healthy for the bird since she hasn't cleaned the cage out in almost 6 months!

Warren Eckstein:
The cage should be cleaned once a week, and disinfected once a month. It's amazing what kids try to get away with. :) Every day the food and water dishes should be washed and rinsed. If you're using paper at the bottom, that should be changed every day. The cage itself should be washed down weekly, and disinfected once a month.

Question from DB:
I've let my macaw's nails grow a bit too long. Can I have a vet cut them, or must I slowly pare them back, so as not to injure the quick? I'd like to get them done quickly.

Warren Eckstein:
I recommend you take them to a vet and have them done by a vet. Loss of blood is not a fun thing for birds.

MSNBC-Will Femia:
Cutting fingernails involved loss of blood?!?!

Warren Eckstein:
It can because they have a quick, which is like a vein. If they're cut properly by a vet, the vein will recede and they can be cut back a little at a time. Once you get them down to the size you want you can do it yourself with a human fingernail clipper. Once you start trimming them, you should trim them weekly to keep them where you want them. And keep some corn starch on hand in case they bleed. It's much more difficult to cut a bird's nails that are dark where you can't see the quick, so it might be best to have a vet show you how to do it.

Question from Ellen Johnson:
Hi. I purchased a Senegal Parrot as a gift for my 8 year old son. The bird loves me and my husband but really hates my child. He likes to bite him, and because his skin is softer, really hurts! Is there anything I can do?

Warren Eckstein:
Yes, it's probably because children tend to be tougher with birds than we want them to be. So make sure you son is being gentle with the bird. Have the son take over the feeding/cleaning chores and make sure he's spending time with the bird. Generally the Senegal Parrot is very active, and it's not uncommon for them to go through a nippy stage. Tell your son not to move his hand away or around the bird quickly and chances are the bird will out grow it.

Question from bharn:
I mist my Cockatiels and they dance around in a bowl of water but sometimes they don't get very wet. How wet should they get.

Warren Eckstein:
As long as they're not in a draft, let them enjoy a bath. They can take coolness, but not a draft. I wouldn't recommend that they be soaking wet, but if they're bathing themselves, you're not going to be able to stop that. As I said, cockatiels are the clowns of the pet world.

Question from Lanbo:
My pet goose has been exposed to a lot of fleas. Will fleas attach to geese?

Warren Eckstein:
Fleas almost attach to anything. I've had geese and chickens of my own and have not had and problems. Usually they take care of each other. Is it a single goose you have, or do you have others?

Question from Lanbo:
I have two. Just got our gander a new wife.

Warren Eckstein:
I've never had a problem with any of my poultry with fleas, they seem to take care of themselves, but you might want to check with a Avian vet in your area. Make sure they're fleas and not some other kind of parasite like lice.

Question from Jim Mueller:
We have had a single male Zebra Finch as a pet for 11 years! Is this an unusually long life span for this species?

Warren Eckstein:
Yes, obviously you're doing something right. Whatever you're doing, keep it up. :)

Question from RPJ:
I have mitred and cherryhead conures paired, 1.5 years old, can they mate if M/F?

Warren Eckstein:
I'm really not sure if two different species of conures can breed, however, if one's a male and one's a female, you have a good shot LOL!! Conures are not real difficult to breed generally.

Question from Kim:
I have inherited a 10 year old cockatiel. Any suggestions for socialization and transition to another home? He has been virtually ignored.

Warren Eckstein:
Yes, they can make the transition easier than other birds. What I recommend doing is spend a lot of time in the evening with your hand in the cage talking to the bird, and not to force yourself. Give it a lot of time. It can take months and months for a bird in a new environment to adapt. Never lose your temper or yell and scream at the bird, they are very sensitive. Within a couple months, from my own experience having rescued several abused cockatiels, they all adapted and became fine pets afterwards.

MSNBC-Will Femia:
Warren, we're coming to the end of our time with you, what have we missed that's worth covering before you go?

Warren Eckstein:
Before choosing a bird, make sure you educate yourself and decide what's important to you, talking, tameness, beauty... Like with any type of animals, it's hard to find all of these things in one bird. I always recommend going to a breeder and getting a hand fed baby. Make sure you're totally aware of what the bird's diet and medical needs will be. Remember, the price of a bird is not determined by how good the bird will be as a pet, it's determined by the rarity of the species, so many inexpensive birds make excellent pets.

Once you get your bird, make sure you bring it to a vet right away before you get too attached to it. Birds are not ornaments, they need a lot of care and a lot of socializing. Make sure you're ready for the commitment. Some of the larger birds can live 70, 80, 90 years. So give it some thought before you decide.

MSNBC-Will Femia:
Thanks very much Warren, always a pleasure.

You have a new puppy, now what?

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Tips on how to turn the lovable beast into a lovable pet

Hundreds of thousands of Americans got a new pet in the last year. But those first few months with your new puppy can be some of the most rewarding - and challenging - of all! Warren Eckstein gives advice to help out all those new puppy owners who are asking, "So, I have a new puppy - now what!?"

IMMUNIZE!
MOST PUPPIES DON'T complete their rounds of immunizations until they are about 4 to 5 months old. Make sure that you keep up-to-date on these, and keep your puppy away from other dogs and animals until they are complete. And whatever you do, don't let puppy wander too far... If they meet a strange dog or other animal, they may catch a disease or other ailment that you don't want to deal with.

PUPPY-PROOF YOUR HOME
Just like a new baby, making sure your home is puppy proof can help your new dog enjoy the house without worry. Put cleaning products out of reach - not just under a cabinet - curious puppies may learn to open doors. Keep lids of garbage cans, medicine containers and other hazards securely fastened. The best bet is to secure your home as if for a 2-year-old child - what's dangerous for kids may be more dangerous for your dog - young or old.

TRAIN EARLY
Start right away! Puppies can learn quickly some basic obedience commands like "sit" and "down" and "come". And the earlier you start this kind of training, the easier it is for you to control your dog later. After all, once they learn "who's the boss", the easier it is for you!

Just remember - giving puppy lots of positive praise when they do things right is a great way to train them. Never hit your dog with anything like rolled up newspaper or even your hand, or rub their noses in messes - this may lead to unusually aggressive or skittish behavior, and someone could get hurt. Scold only with a stern "no", and praise with lots of positive verbal and physical attention - they can never get too much loving attention!

SET THE RULES
Keep the rules straight - immediately. Setting the rules and regulations in the house early makes it easier for puppy to learn how to do things "right." Make sure that everyone in your family knows the rules about what the dog is and isn't allowed to do. Is Fido allowed on the couch, or not allowed in certain rooms in the house? If everyone in the family follows the same rules, then your puppy won't get confused. Nothing contributes to a badly-behaved pet more than if Mom lets Fido on the couch, but Dad yells at him to get off! I'd be confused, too.

Start sleeping and potty-training routines quickly. If you want your dog to go to the bathroom outside, make sure that you start this early. Take him on regular outings, and praise him a lot when he does his business. But starting with "paper training" and then expecting the transition to outdoor training to be easy is a mistake. If you do this, don't be surprised if Fido thinks its okay to use the Sunday paper as a bathroom later on in life!

This is also true with sleeping arrangements. Create a safe, comfortable, and warm area for your dog to sleep and start those sleeping arrangements earlier rather than later. After all, a 2-month-old puppy is so cute sleeping next to your child in bed... but breaking that habit later is not easy! Another important tip: Never leave dogs and small children alone. It's too easy for the child or the puppy to get into rough play and someone might get hurt.

GET THEM FIXED!
Unless you're planning on breeding, get that dog spayed or neutered! With an estimated 3.1 million dogs available for adoption each year, approximately 2.1 million of these are euthanized. Most of the time, these poor dogs don't have a home because their "parents" didn't get fixed. Inexpensive - and sometimes free - spaying and neutering services are offered all over the country by many organizations, including local pet shelters, the ASPCA, and the veterinarians' offices.

Right now, there's a controversy about spaying and neutering: Some places recommend spaying or neutering puppies and kittens as young as 8 to 9 weeks. Generally, owners should wait until their pets are about 4-5 months old, and work with the recommendations of your veterinarian. It's a little procedure that can save a lot of heartache in the long run.

GET THEM TAGGED
Losing pets can be horrible, for any family member. The best way to prevent this is to keep them on a leash whenever they are in an un-enclosed area, and make sure your pet has dog tags on with your current address and telephone number with an answering machine. The lost dogs at shelters aren't wearing tags - how easy would finding their homes be if they were wearing simple tags?

There are a variety of different types of tags including the basic metal tags, or high-tech tags including under-the-skin registry chips, or voice-recording tags. Any tag is better than none, so make sure your new puppy has one, and make sure it's on a collar that fits correctly. Around the neck, you should be able to fit three fingers under the collar comfortably.

Dog Bite Prevention

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

It is estimated that 4.7 million people, most of them children, are bitten annually by dogs in the United States.

According to the AVMA, 80% of dog bites occur in the home.

Sixty percent of those bitten are children.

The majority of these dog bites could be prevented by education and responsible pet ownership.

Dogs who are socialized properly and live with responsible owners are much less apt to bite.

Dogs who are spayed and neutered are three times less likely to bite.

Basic rules for greeting a strange dog:

--Never pet a dog without asking the owner if it's OK

--Curl fingers, let the dog smell the back of your hand

--Never walk up behind a dog

--Never tease a dog

--Don't go after their food or toys

What are the warning signs of an aggressive dog?

--Hair on neck raised (hackles)

--Raised lip, the more teeth the more aggression

--Raised tail

--Snarling and barking with growl

--Lunging

What should you do if you come across an aggressive dog?

--No fast jerky motions

--Act unconcerned

--Don't stare in dogs eyes

--Place object between you and dog (i.e. bicycle)

--Hop on car hood or tree

--Feed your jacket or books to dog if he tries to bite

--If all else fails, lay face down on ground, cover head with hands, stay still, this is a non-threatening position from the dogs point of view

The Best Pet Food to Woof Down

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Americans currently spend a whopping 16 billion dollars on pet food a year and feeding fluffy and can take a bite out of any families budget. But are premium brands worth it? Warren Eckstein has some ideas on picking the perfect pet food.

AMERICANS SPENT MORE THAN $16 billion on pet food last year -- that's a lot of jack or a lot of kibbles and bits. But how do you pick the right food for your pet? Here are some things to look for when picking out pet food:

IS IT A COMPLETE AND BALANCED DIET?

Manufacturers are required to only used the "complete and balanced" words on the label if they get approval - that way you'll know for sure if it should be used as supplement or can be used as your pet's only source of nourishment.

IS THE FOOD AGE APPROPRIATE?

Does your puppy really need puppy chow? Experts say yes. Kittens and puppies need special food up until 8 months to a year old. As with babies, young animals need different types of vitamins and minerals from adult animals.

And, at the other end of the spectrum, senior pets also have different nutritional needs. So a senior diet food may be a good idea.

DOES IT HAVE AN AAFCO STAMP OF APPROVAL?

The Association of American Feed Control Officials, a watchdog group, develops standards for pet food. You should always look for their seal and the words "complete and balanced" on your pet's food label. But, no matter how good the food you pick is for your pet, if they don't eat it, it doesn't matter. So, the next questions you have to ask are:

* Does your pet like it?

* Can your pet digest it?

* How does your pet look?

When considering the likability factor - smell is important. Remember a cat's sense of smell is 200,000 better than ours.

HOW DO YOU PICK GOOD PET FOOD?

GENERIC V. BRAND NAME V. PREMIUM

These are the basic categories of pet food. As a general rule, the quality goes up with the price. Yes, a dog or a cat can live on generic or grocery store brand dog food - just make sure you look for the AAFCO seal of approval to make sure your pet is getting complete nutrition.

But - there are often more fillers and less good food in the lower priced brands.

The brand names are the Purina's of the world, or the Fancy Feasts. Again, they are little higher in price than the generic brand, you'll probably get less filler, and more nutritional content.

The premium brands are the kind you usually get at the pet store like Science Diet, IAM's, Eukanuba. you will get more choices with this brand and more real food - but you'll pay for it.

No matter what you buy, its important to read the label carefully. For instance, chicken or chicken parts can mean any part of the chicken including beaks and feet. So, if the idea of your pet eating beaks and feet makes you queasy, you should look at the ingredients carefully.

You should recognize all the words on the ingredient list. If it's not something you would eat, you should think twice before giving it to your pet.

Also, when looking at the label, you should make sure the protein source - chicken or beef - is at or near the top of the list.

WET V. DRY V. SEMI-MOIST

There are pros and cons to all of them.

WET OR CANNED FOOD:

* Pros: Most palatable to the pet, convenient for the owner.
* Cons: More expensive than dry, leftovers spoil easily (particularly when people leave a bowl of food out all day), can lead to over feeding because pets tend to eat fast, messiest to use and they are generally 60 to 80 percent water, so you end up paying for a lot of nothing.

DRY:

* Pros: Best for teeth and gums, least expensive, easiest to use for the so-called "latch-key" dog (when you leave all day and leave a bowl full of food behind).
* Cons: Hard to switch at mid-life of your pet. If you start with wet and move to dry, it's like starting your kid on apple pie and then switching to toast - they aren't going to be happy about it.

SEMI-MOIST:

This is like the kibbles and bits or tender vittles
* Pros: Light-weight, easy to use, no clean up or prep time at all.
* Cons: Lots of additives and preservatives.

If you want, try wet with dry by mixing 3 parts dry to 1 part wet, if you are going to do that.

Most veterinarians recommend dry because of the ease and the fact that its good for the teeth and gums. But vets aren't always the best sources of information - they often get free samples of one brand or the other. There are such things as pet nutritionists if you are particularly concerned about your cat's eating habits.

OTHER CATEGORIES:

Natural: Generally these are available at pet stores or health food stores. They usually don't have any artificial flavors or preservative and they tend to be expensive - about the same as premium and pet store brands.
Warning: Natural can sometimes come from small companies and the quality is not always consistent.

Organic: Same as with people food, organic includes ingredients that are grown and processed without the use of genetic engineering, synthetic or artificial fertilizers, pesticide, dyes and additives. Again, they tend to be more expensive than generic pet food and the quality is not always as consistent as with major brands.

Vegetarian: If you want to keep your pet a vegetarian, you have to do it very carefully. Try working with a nutritionist to make sure your pet is getting all the protein, vitamins and minerals it needs.
Also - and this is very important - dogs are omnivores, they eat anything, so they can go on a non-meat diet. However, cats cannot. Cats are carnivores and cannot just survive on a vegetarian diet.

Special diets: If your vet recommends a specific diet, follow their lead. There are anti-furball formulas, senior pet formulas and food for pets with sensitive stomachs.

People food: Again, if you want to cook for your dog, that's okay. Just make sure you are very careful to balance their diet and be very vigilant and consistent about it. But, do your research. There are some foods, like chocolate and onions, that's great for humans, deadly for dogs.
Also, raw meats can be dangerous with all the bacteria floating around just like with humans. Dogs and cats will get table scraps, just don't go crazy.

WARNING

Never change a cat or dog's diet suddenly. You have to do it very gradually. Try making the change over a two to three week period. If you don't they will get sick.

GENERAL POINTS TO KEEP IN MIND

The recommended feeding amounts on the back of packages are always more than the dog or cat needs. Also, there are usually 800 numbers on the labels, just like with your kids, don't be afraid to ask questions.

Putting a Leash on Veterinary Costs

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Owners can ease pain of pet medical bills, which totaled $10 billion in '07

By David Colker - ChicagoTribune.com

Veterinarian Gregory Hammer laughed as he recalled the average price his clients paid for an office visit in 1973, when he started in rural Kansas.

"It was $6," said Hammer, now president of the American Veterinary Medical Association.

Good luck getting so much as a torn nail clipped for that these days.

Americans spent more than $10 billion on veterinary care last year, according to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association.

A single visit to a vet cost an average of $135 for a dog owner as of 2006, the last time the veterinary group took a survey of those costs. That's up 83 percent from 10 years earlier. Inflation played a major role-the costs of office space, staff salaries, equipment and supplies have all shot up.

Pet owners also are demanding a higher level of care. "Years ago, if an animal had a serious cancer," Hammer said, "someone would say to put him to sleep. Now they want to be referred to an oncologist."

But one of the biggest contributors to higher consumer costs was a comprehensive veterinary market study issued in 1999 by consulting firm KPMG International.

It found that the profession was charging too little. And some veterinarians were giving away care.

"Opportunities abound," the executive summary of the study stated, but vets were held back by "inefficient structures, inappropriate business practices and attitudes."

Many professionals in the field, faced with stagnating incomes, took heed.

"It was a sea change for the veterinary profession," said Jim Flanigan, marketing director of the veterinary association.

And soon thereafter came sticker shock for clients.

"Even if your pet is perfectly healthy, vets are now ready with a battery of tests, shots and even X-rays for the annual wellness checkup," Jeff Blyskal, a senior editor at Consumer Reports, said in a controversial 2003 article.

Not all veterinarians take it that far. And, Hammer noted, medical care for animals still costs a fraction of treatments for the same conditions in humans.

But given the relatively scant use of pet insurance, you're likely to pay the vet's full bill out of pocket. VPI, the largest company in the pet insurance field, maintains policies on about 450,000 dogs and cats, less than 1 percent of the 150 million total dogs and cats in the U.S.

Savings suggestions

So, here are some tips-culled from non-profit animal groups, industry watchdogs and veterinarians-on how to take the bite out of pet health costs.

Know your breed. Some breeds are more prone to expensive hereditary ailments. In analyzing data compiled by Purdue University's Veterinary Medical Database, Consumer Reports found, for example, that hip dysplasia was most commonly found in Labrador retrievers, golden retrievers and German shepherds. (You can read the Consumer Reports article at www.consumer reports.org/Pets.)

Know your breeder. If you want a purebred, you're much better off buying in a situation where you can speak directly to the breeder. You want to make sure the animal was not the product of a puppy or cat mill, in which females are kept nearly constantly pregnant to ensure high volume. Not only are these mills inhumane, they're also breeding grounds for expensive health problems.

Get a mutt. They're not nearly as likely to suffer from hereditary conditions. But, of course, they can still get sick, and expensively so.

Get a cat. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, cat-only households spent an average of $244 on veterinary expenses in 2006. Dog-only households spent a mean of $395.

Use low-cost clinics. Many procedures-such as spaying and neutering, vaccinations and the insertion of identification chips-can be done at discount or even free clinics, some of which are government-sponsored. Information often is available at non-profit shelters.

Look for vet specials. In-office clinics can offer price breaks on vaccinations, teeth cleanings and other procedures. Also, there are senior citizen discounts and package plans for puppy or kitten care.

Go online. If a medication is not needed immediately, you can sometimes save money by ordering it online rather than buying at a veterinarian office. Suppliers include Petmed Express (www.1800 petmeds.com), PetCareRx ( www.petcarerx.com) and Foster and Smith (www.drsfostersmith.com).

Spread out your payments. It doesn't lower bills, but some veterinarians offer payment plans from CareCredit, a credit company owned by GE Money.

One type of plan allows you to make no-interest, monthly payments on an approved schedule. But if you miss a payment, you get hit with interest charges.

Comparison shop. Los Angeles resident Aida Akhavan was told that her dog needed surgery that would cost about $5,500. She called numerous veterinary surgeons before finding one who agreed to do the operation for $1,500.

Ask about alternatives. If your veterinarian suggests an expensive treatment, ask about less-costly methods that could also be effective.

Consider insurance. Because of substantial deductibles and exclusions in pet policies, according to the Consumer Reports study, pet owners might be better off putting what they pay in monthly premiums into a savings account. But coverage could play a major role in covering bills for very expensive conditions.

Limit tests. Extensive blood tests and other diagnostic tools can be nearly as expensive as the treatments.

If a client is not able to pay for a wide range of tests, some veterinarians will offer to proceed based on best guesses.

"We make the client sign a waiver saying they understand the risks taken without a full diagnosis," said veterinarian Sylvia Domotor, who heads a four-doctor practice in Monrovia, Calif.

It's a route she reserves for serious cases.

"Sometimes we have to get creative," she said, "but I'm not going to let that pet walk out the door untreated."

Teaching your dog a trick or two

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Want to train your dog to do a new trick or two? Agility is the fastest-growing dog sport in North America, and tests both dog and handler's skills and fitness. Warren Eckstein talks about how to agility-train your dog.

Information for this article is compiled from Warren Eckstein's book "How to Get Your Dog to Do What You Want : A Loving Approach to Unleashing Your Dog's Astonishing Potential."

AGILITY IS ORIGINALLY based on equestrian stadium jumpers' competitions, and made its debut as an entertainment for spectators at the Crufts Dog Show in 1979. It has since become the most rapidly growing dog sport in England, Western Europe, and North America.
The purpose of agility is to demonstrate the ability of the dog and its handler to work as a smoothly functioning team while negotiating over/under/through various obstacles and jumps. Dogs are directed through a series of obstacles and must complete the course in the allotted time. The dog should be under control at all times and show a willingness to work with the handler.
In the United States there are several national organizations for agility which sanction tests or trials held by local dog training clubs. In competition, the obstacles are arranged in various configurations which are unique from trial to trial. As the dog and handler earn their way into successively higher levels, the courses increase in complexity.
Dogs compete only against dogs of similar height within a fixed number of jump height divisions. The dog with the lowest number of faults and the fastest time wins the class or height division.

ELIGIBILITY FOR ENTRY

Generally, healthy, trained dogs over eighteen months of age are eligible to compete and most competitions are open to purebred and mixed breed dogs.
The Regular Agility class is the basis for all of the agility classes. This course tests the dog on all possible types of equipment and qualifying in this class demonstrates the dog's ability to perform all of the types of obstacles safely and correctly. The dog and handler maneuver through a numbered obstacle course, designed by the judge. As the dog and handler progress through the levels of the Regular Agility classes, they demonstrate the ability to negotiate more complex courses with adequate speed, efficiency, handling skills, and teamwork on all obstacles.
Various types of obstacles can be included in the course. Our course, set up on the plaza in New York's Rockefeller Center, includes the following:
Contact obstacles
8-foot dog walk: Dogs go up one side, across a thin wooden plank, and down the opposite side.
Tunnel obstacles
Closed tunnel: like an open-ended nylon sock, dog runs in one end, and shoots out the other.
Open tunnel: A long plastic, flexible tube.
Jumping obstacles
Displaceable tire jump: A suspended tire.
Long jump: Just like it sounds.
Hurdles: Can vary in height and width.
Dogs and trainers get a limited time to "practice" on the course, and usually are allowed to run through it only once or twice. While the obstacles are the same from competition to competition, the order and complexity of the route varies widely.
For a clean, non-faulted run the dog earns 10 points. Points are deducted for faults like running over the course time, knocking poles off jumps and running the course the wrong way. To be certified at a certain level and move up to higher ranks, the dogs need a total of 30 points.
In all agility classes, the handlers direct their dogs through the course without a collar or lead and without using food, toys, balls or other devices. However, the handler is allowed to use verbal or visual commands to assist the dog throughout the course.

HOW DO YOU TRAIN THEM FOR THESE TYPES OF THINGS?

Practice, practice, practice! Plus keeping it fun. Since each obstacle requires different skills, the dogs are trained differently for each one. For example, a ball can be thrown through the tunnels to "lure" them through (which, of course, can't be done in competition) or treats can be used to help them over the see-saw and dog walks. But in every case, the handler makes it FUN for the dog, and in the end, they are rewarded with lots of positive petting!

WHAT DOES THE DOG GET OUT OF THIS?

Not only do they get in great shape, but they also learn to socialize well with other animals and people and get comfortable in different places.

WHAT KINDS OF DOGS ARE ALLOWED TO DO THIS?

All kinds! Big, small, pure-breeds, mixed-breeds... all can be included, and they compete against dogs that are approximately the same size (so that the jumps can be tailored for the course.) Personality-wise, the dogs must be responsive to commands, be willing to learn new obstacles, and full of energy.

Non-Toxic Plants

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

[ Click here for the Toxic Plants list ]

This list from the ASPCA contains plants that have not been reported as having systemic effects on animals or as having intense effects on the gastrointestinal tract. Any plant material ingested by an animal (as when dogs and cats ingest yard grass) may produce signs of vomiting, depression, or diarrhea. These signs are generally mild and self-limiting and often do not require any treatment.

Please note that the information contained in our plant lists is not meant to be all-inclusive, but rather a compilation of the most frequently encountered plants.

If you think that your animal is ill or may have ingested a poisonous substance, contact your local veterinarian or the ASPCA 24-hour emergency poison hotline directly at 1-888-426-4435.

A

Achira
Acorn squash
African violet
Algaroba
Aluminum plant
Alumroot
American rubber
Anthericum comosum
Antirrhinum multiflorum
Arabian gentian
Aregelia
Artillery plant
Aspidium falcatum
Autumn olive

B

Bachelors buttons
Ball fern
Bamboo
Bamboo palm
Bamboo vine
Banana
Banana squash
Begonia species
Belmore sentry palm
Big shellbark hickory
Bitter pecan
Bitternut
Black haw
Black hawthorn
Blaspheme vine
Bloodleaf
Blooming sally
Bluebottle
Blue bead
Blue daisy
Blue echeveria
Blue-dicks
Blue-eyed daisy
Blunt leaf peperomia
Blushing bromeliad
Bold sword fern
Boston fern
Bottlebrush
Bottle Palm
Brazilian orchid
Bride's bonnet
Bristly greenbrier
Broom hickory
Brodiaea pulchella
Butterfly ginger
Butterfly iris
Bullbrier
Bur gourd
Burro's tail
Buttercup squash
Butterfly squash

C

Caeroba
Calathea insignis
Calthea lancifolia
California pitcher plant
Callistemon bradyandrus
Callistemon viminalis
Callistemon citrinus
Calochortus nuttalli
Camellia
Canada hemlock
Canary date palm
Candle plant
Candycorn plant
Canna lily
Cantebury-bell
Cape jasmine
Cape primrose
Carob
Carob tree
Caroba
Carobinha
Carolina hemlock
Carrion flower
Carrot flower
Carrot fern
Casaba melon
Cast Iron plant
Cat brier
Cat ear
Cattleya labiata
Celosia globosa
Celosia plumosa
Celosia spicata
Chamaedorean
Chaparral
Chenille plant
Chestnut
Chicken-gizzard
Chickens and hens
Chin-lao-shu
China aster
China root
Chinese plumbago
Chlorophytum
Chlorophytum bechetii
Chocolate soldier
Christmas dagger
Christmas palm
Christmas orchid
Cinnamon
Cinquefoil
Cirrhopetalum
Clearweed
Cliff brake
Cocks comb
Cocktail orchid
Collinia elegans
Color-band
Columnar
Common camellia
Common catbrier
Common garden canna
Common greenbrier
Common snapdragon
Common staghorn fern
Confederate jasmine
Coolwort
Copperlead
Copper rose
Coralardisia
Coral bells
Coralberry
Cornflower
Crape myrtle
Creeping charlie
Creeping gloxinia
Creeping mahonia
Creeping pilea
Creeping rubus
Creeping zinnia
Crepe myrtle
Crimson bottlebush
Crimson cup
Crisped feather fern
Crossandra
Cucumber
Cushon aloe
Cushion moss
Cyrtudeira reptans

D

Dainty
Dainty rabbits-foot fern
Dallas fern
Dancing doll orchid
Davallia bullata mariessi
Davallia trichomanoides
Desert trumpet
Dichelostemma
Dichorisandra reginae
Dinteranthus vanzylii
Duffii fern
Duffy fern
Dwarf date palm
Dwarf feather fern
Dwarf palm
Dwarf Rose-Stripe Star
Dwarf royal palm
Dwarf whitman fern

E

Earth star
Easter cattleya
Easter daisy
Easter lily cactus
Easter orchid
Edible banana
Elephant-Ear Begonia
Emerald ripple peperomia
English hawthorn
Epidendrum atropurpeum
Epidendrum ibaguense
Epidendrum
Episcia spp.

F

False aralia
Fairy fountain
Fan tufted palm
Feather fern
Feathered amaranth
Fiery reed orchid
Fig leaf gourd
Figleaf palm
Fingernail plant
Fire weed
Fish tail fern
Flame african violet
Flame of the woods
Flame violet
Florida butter-fly orchid
Fluffy ruffles
Forster sentry palm
Fortunes palm
Freckle face
Friendship plant
Frosty

G

Garden marigold
Garden snapdragon
German violet
Gherkins
Ghost leafless orchid
Ghost plant
Giant aster
Giant holly fern
Giant white inch plant
Gibasis geniculata
Globe thistle
Gloxinia
Gold bloom
Gold-fish plant
Golden bells
Golden lace orchid
Golden shower orchid
Good luck palm
Grape hyacinth
Grape Ivy
Great willow herb
Green ripple peperomia
Greenbrier

H

Hagbrier
Hardy baby tears
Hardy gloxinia
Haws
Haws apple
Haworthia
Hawthorn
Hedgehog gourd
Hellfetter
Hemlock tree
Hen and chickens fern
Hens and chickens
Hickory
Hindu rope plant
Holligold
Holly fern
Hollyhock
Honey locust
Honey plant
Honeydew melons
Honeysuckle fuchsia
Hookera pulchella
Horse brier
Hoya carnosa 'exotica'
Hoya carnosa 'krinkle'
Hoya carnosa 'variegata'
Hoya 'Mauna Loa'
Hubbard squash
Hypocyrta spp.

I

Ice plant
Imbricata sword fern
Irish moss
Iron cross begonia
Iron tree
Ivy peperomia
Ivy-leaf peperomia

J

Jackson brier
Jacob's ladder
Japanese aralia
Japanese holly fern
Japanese moss
Japanese pittosporum
Jasmine
Jewel orchid
Joseph's coat
Jungle geranium

K

Kaempferis
Kahali ginger
Kenilworth ivy
Kentia palm
Kenya palm
Kenya violet
Kharoub
King nut
King of the forest
King and queen fern
Kuang-yen- pa-hsieh

L

Lace flower vine
Lace orchid
Ladies ear drops
Lady lou
Lady palm
Lagerstroemia indica
Lance Pleumele
Large
Lady Palm
Laurel-leaved greenbrier
Leather peperomia
Leng-fen tu'an
Leopard lily
Leopard orchid
Lesser snapdragon
Lily of the valley orchid
Linden
Lipstick plant
Little zebra plant
Little fantasy peperomia
Living rock cactus
Living stones
Locust pods
Lou-lang-t'ou
Luther

M

Madagascar jasmine
Magnolia bush
Mahonia aquifolium
Malabar gourd
Malaysian dracaema
Manila palm
Mapleleaf begonia
Maranta
Marbled fingernail
Mariposa lily
Maroon
Mary-bud
Measles plant
Melons
Metallic peperomia
Metallic leaf begonia
Mexican firecracker
Mexican rosettes
Mexican snowballs
Miniature date palm
Minature fish tail
Minature maranta
Minature marble plant
Mistletoe cactus
Mockernut hickory
Mosaic plant
Mosiac vase
Moss agate
Moss campion
Moss fern
Moss phlox
Moss rose
Mossy campion
Mother fern
Mother spleenwort
Mother of pearl
Mountain camellia
Mountain grape
Mulberry bush greenbrier
Mulberry tree
Musa paradisiaca
Muscari armeniacum
Muscari spp.
Muskmellon

N

Narrow leafed pleomele
Natal plum
Neanthe bella palm
Nematanthus spp.
Neanthebella
Neoregelia
Nephrolepsis
Nerve plant
New silver and bronze
Night blooming cereus

O

Odontoglossum spp.
Old man cactus
Old world orchid
Orange star
Oregon grape
Ossifragi vase

P

Paddys wig
Painted lady
Palm lily
Pampus grass
Panamiga
Pansy orchid
Paradise palm
Parlor palm
Parlor plant
Parsley fern
Peace begonia
Peacock plant
Pearl plant
Pearly dots
Peperomia hederifolia
Peperomia peltifolia
Peperomia rotundifolia
Peperomia sandersii
Pepper face
Persian violet
Pheasant plant
Piggy back plant
Pigmy date palm
Pignut
Pignut hickory
Pilea microphylla
Pilea mucosa
Pink Brocade
Pink Pearl
Pink polka dot plant
Pink starlite
Pirliteiro
Pitaya
Plantanus orientalis
Plantanus occidentalis
Platinum peperomia
Platycerium alicicorne
Plumbago larpentiae
Plush plant
Polka dot plant
Polystichum falcatum
Pony tail
Porcelain flower
Pot marigold
Prairie lily
Prairie snowball
Prayer plant
Prickly bottlebrush
Prostrate coleus
Purple baby tears
Purple passion vine
Purple waffle plant
Purpleosier willow

Q

Queen's spiderwort
Queencup
Queens spiderwort
Queensland arrowroot

R

Rabbits foot fern
Rainbow orchid
Red african violet
Red berried greenbrier
Red edge peperomia
Red hawthorne
Red palm lily
Red veined prayer
Reed palm
Resurrection lily
Rex begonia
Rhynchophorum
Ribbon plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
Roosevelt fern
Royal velvet plant
Rubber plant, baby
Russian olive

S

Saffron spike zebra
Saint Bernards lily
Sand lily
Sand verbena
Satin pellionia
Sawbrier
Scabious
Scarborough lily
Scarlet orchid
Scarlet sage
Sego lily
Shagbark hickory
Shan ku'ei-lai
Shellbark hickory
Shiny leaf smilax
Shrimp cactus
Silver bell
Silver berry
Silver heart
Silver-leaf peperomia
Silver nerve plant
Silver pink vine
Silver star
Silver table fern
Silver tree anamiga
Slender deutzia
Small fruited hickory
Smilax tamnoides vas
Speckled wood lily
Spice orchid
Spider ivy
Spider plant
Spotted laurel
Squarenut
Squirrels foot fern
Star jasmine
Star lily
Star plant
Star tulip
Star window plant
Strawberry
Striped blushing
Sugar pods
Sulfur flower
Summer hyacinth
Swedish ivy
Sweetheart hoya
Sweetheart peperomia
Sweet william
Sword fern

T

Tahitian bridal veil
Tailed orchid
Tall feather fern
Tall mahonia
Teasel gourd
Texas sage
Thea japonica
Thimble cactus
Thorn apple (Carateagus oxyacanth)
Ti hu-ling
Tiger orchid
Toad spotted cactus
Torch lily
Tous-les-mois
Trailing peperomia
Tree cactus
Tree gloxinia
Tropical moss
True cantalope
Tu fu-ling
Tulip poplar
Tulip tree
Turban squash
Turf lily

U

Umbrella plant
Urbinia agavoides
Usambara violet

V

Variegated laurel
Variegated oval leaf peperomia
Variegated wandering jew
Variegated wax plant
Velvet plant
Venus fly trap
Verona fern
Verona lace fern
Vining peperomia
Violet slipper gloxinia

W

Waffle plant
Walking anthericum
Washington hawthorn
Water hickory
Watermelon begonia
Watermelon peperomia
Watermelon pilea
Wax plant
Wax rosette
Weeping bottlebrush
Weeping sergeant hemlock
Weisdornbluten
West indian gherkin
Western sword
White ginger
White edged swedish ivy
White heart hickory
Whitman fern
Wild buckwheat
Wild buckwheat
Wild hyacinth
Wild lantana
Wild sarsaparilla
Wild strawberry
Willow herb
Windmill palm
Winter cattleya
Withered snapdragon
Woolflower

Y

Yellow bloodleaf
Yellow-flowered gourd
Yerba linda

Z

Zebra haworthia
Zebra plant
Zinnia sp.
Zucchini squash

Life in a Fish Bowl

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Tips on how to set-up a home aquarium

Goldfish have always been popular, ever since the Chinese first kept them 5,000 years ago. In fact it's been estimated that among us we own an amazing 19 million of them. However, the practice of keeping fish in tanks is a relatively modern one - developed in the 1830s to study aquatic life at close range. Since then, it has become the most popular hobby - and recently it's increasing, with nearly 1 of every 5 households owning fish. So how can you set up the perfect home aquarium? Warren Eckstein has advice.

ONE IMPETUS FOR aquariums is the increased popularity and mainstream belief in feng shui, a set of Chinese principles that are used to fashion a more positive living environment. Water is among the five elements that feng shui practitioners believe is crucial to physical and emotional health, and water that moves is considered even more beneficial. You'll often find aquariums in doctors' offices because of this calming effect.

We all remember the childhood trials of the carnival goldfish - take them home in their little plastic bags, and within hours (or days, if you were lucky), your parents unceremoniously flushed them, lifeless. Keeping fish alive, while it seems so easy, can be tricky! So here is a guide to setting up, maintaining, and keeping your fish (and aquarium) healthy and happy, and tips on how to avoid some of the most common fish-keeping mistakes.

THE EMPTY AQUARIUM

Clean the tank by rinsing with water. Don't use any kind of detergent or soap, since these chemicals are toxic to fish, even in very small amounts. Gravel - used for the base of the tank - should be rinsed thoroughly, and placed in the tank using a plate. Gravel is available in many shapes, sizes and colors, but darker gravel will cause your fish to appear darker and brighter.

DECORATING YOUR TANK

Landscaping an aquarium with safe rocks and plants enhances the beauty of your aquarium, and helps keep your fish occupied. Most people use plastic plants, but you can use live underwater plants too. Be sure to ask which plants thrive in fresh or saltwater environments before you put them in your tank, and remember that shells and coral are only for saltwater tanks. Not only are live plants beautiful, but they also compete for available nutrients in the water, and can help keep your algae levels down.

THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE AND CHEMICALS

Cold tap water is fine for your freshwater fish tank, but you must remove the chlorine first. To do this, leave the water out for 24 hours, allowing it to adjust to room temperature and release the chlorine. For saltwater tanks, maintain 1 tablespoon Kosher or aquarium salt for each 5 gallons of water.

A healthy temperature for most fish is approximately 77 degrees Fahrenheit. While goldfish don't require heaters, tropical fish need about 5 watts of heater per gallon of water. And remember, never have your heater plugged in unless it is properly immersed in water. Also, the warmer your water is, the fewer fish it can support - this is why crowded tanks have more problems in the warm summer months.

Frequent small partial water changes are always better for your tank than one large change. Remove 20 percent of the water - suctioned from the bottom of the tank, near the gravel - once a week for the first month, and at least monthly after that, replacing it with clean, fresh water - at the same temperature. You can significantly reduce pollution this way. If you have cloudy water the first week of an aquarium, wait three days, and only feed what will be completely eaten in one minute.

THE COMPLETED AQUARIUM

Many people assume that if you go into a pet store, you can buy any bunch of fish, and they will live happily together. That's not true! Talk to pet store representatives, and find out which fish are compatible with each other. Betas, for example, are fighting fish, and should be alone, or they will kill other fish in their tank. Some types of schooling fish should not be alone in a tank, so make sure you do your homework. A rule of thumb is 1 inch of fish per gallon of water, so for a 15 gallon tank, you shouldn't have more than 15 inches of fish. This means 3 fish measuring 5 inches each, or 5 fish measuring 3 inches each.

To introduce your fish to their new home, float your bag with the new fish in the tank for 15 minutes to avoid temperature shock. Then mix the water gradually, and gently put the fish into the tank.

The biggest mistake that people make is that they overfeed their fish. Why is this so bad? First of all, an overabundance of food will cause algae to form, and that can be very unhealthy for your fish. Also, fish will eat themselves to death. You should only feed what is completely eaten in one minute.

Tige's Column

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Tige was Warren's American Staffordshire Terrier. Retired from his role as "Buster Brown's Dog" he toured as the company's mascot. Tige is no longer with us but with his great wealth of knowledge, his column will continue.

• Stress is a major cause of feather plucking and illness in our feathered friends. "Triggers" include moving, moving the cage, new additions to the family (human or animal), noise, sudden changes in routine and temperature, illness, etc. When changes are necessary, try to avoid stressing the bird by gradually making changes.

• When puppy proofing your home, be aware that the following items could contain lead and take steps to prevent your puppy from chewing on or ingesting paint, linoleum, lead weights or shots, insecticides, foil, batteries, solder, putty, roofing ot plumbing supplies and golf balls.

• It's important not only to clean up your dog's waste when out in the community, but also in your yard. Feces can contain intestinal worms, other parasites, germs, etc. that can spread health problems to dogs through their sniffing, eating or walking on contaminated feces.

• To ensure your caged bird is eating every day, it's vital to check the bird's food and water dishes twice a day and remove leftover cooked or fresh food before it spoils. Be sure to remove the empty seed hulls that could give the false impression that the dish is full of seeds while the bird is actually starving.

• Kittens and cats just love to play with yarn, string, rope or anything else that dangles. Too often owners encourage this and leave playthings around for a pet to play with even when he's unsupervised. Be aware that in an instant a playing cat could become hopelessly entangled in a long strand of fabric, or in the case of kittens on a swing, could be trapped and strangled within moments. It sounds grim but accidents like these are a reality, and they happen more than people realize each and every year. Don't let a cat's frustration with yarn, hanging rope or the like bring him to an untimely death. He deserves better.

• Cats are carnivores, but often develop a taste for grass. Grass is a good source of fiber, so provide your indoor cat with some grass blades to munch. Many pet shops have kitty grass kits, or make your own indoor lawn! All you need is a stable pot with some clean (preferably sterilized) soil. Sprinkle some seeds of grass, parsley or thyme (try catnip for a true kitty high!). Water daily, without drenching the soil, and keep in a well-lit place.

• Dogs that are fed a regular diet of dried dog food are often thirstier than those fed canned or moist foods. This is not because dry food is saltier, but because there is less liquid in the dry vittles than in other forms of nourishment. So make sure that your dog has plenty of clean water.

• Trauma can cause serious injury to a puppy's bones and joints. Take certain precautions so this won't happen. Don't allow your puppy to romp or be kenneled on a slick surface. Don't encourage your pup to walk on it's hind legs or to pull a heavy load. Obesity can also place stress on both puppies' and dogs' bones and joints.

• Over-feeding tropical fish is the biggest cause of fish dying. Only feed the amount that your fish will eat in a five minute span!

• Keep your birds away from drafts during the cold winter months.

• Did you know that stress affects pets as well as people; so "get off our backs!"

• Rebellious periods in a puppy often crop up by around six months of age and again around one year of age. In order to have a well-adjusted dog, during these periods it is beneficial to revert back quickly and reinforce your puppy's basic training.

• If you would like to grow CATNIP for your cat, buy some seeds - fill several 4-inch pots with potting soil - plant 10 to 15 seeds in each pot, and water the soil. Place the pots in a warm, dark area for a few days until the seeds begin to sprout. Then move them to a sunny spot and let the palnts grow until there's enough for your cat to start nibbling.

• For cats, feathers and bright ribbons are irresistible fun! Tie a feather or ribbon on a string and tie the string to a stick or short, rounded rod. Dangle the object near the cat, or scurry it across the floor and watch what happens.

• Birds should not be given toys that can be pulled apart. Any toys made of yarn, string or cord, are poor choices. Birds can swallow bits of these items and choke or they may become entangled in them or injure themselves. Select well made toys.

• If your dog is drinking abnormally large amounts of water, it could indicate the onset of diabetes. The disease can be diagnosed with a simple blood test by a vet and controlled with insulin shots at home.

• In an average year, cat owners in the United States spend $2.15 billion on cat food - and $295 million on kitty litter.

• In many cultures, dogs are considered powerful good luck charms with the ability to ward off demons. In ancient China, for instance, the sentinels responsible for guarding the imperial court dressed in canine costumes and barked away evil spirits.

• If your dog is small enough, weigh yourself alone and yourself while holding the dog. The difference is your dog's weight.

• Rabies is on the rise in many types of wild animals in all parts of the country. Frequent wildlife visitors in your yard could expose your pets to rabies - there have been serious outbreaks in skunks, raccoons and bats.

To protect your dog and yourselves from rabies, keep your pet's rabies immunizations up-to-date. This includes BOTH dogs and cats.

Keep your pets indoors or leashed and supervised when they are allowed to be outdoors.

Be sure to learn the basic signs of rabies so you can protect yourself and your pet from being bitten or know when to seek help promptly if bitten.

• Tropical fish should not be kept near windows. Sunlight can affect water temperatures and increase algae growth within.

• When shampooing your pets make sure you use a product made specifically for your pet. Puppy shampoo for for puppies and kitten shampoo for kittens.

Always brush your pet before bathing to remove dead hair, dander, and eliminate tangling.

Finding the right dog trainer

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Tips to find a dog trainer who can also fit your needs

One of the most important decisions a pet owner can make is the selection of a dog trainer. A knowledgeable professional trainer can make the dog's learning experience productive and fulfilling. Warren Eckstein explains important qualities to look for in a trainer and how to find the best match for you and your pet.

THINK OF PICKING a trainer the same way you'd pick a pediatrician, or cardiologist: You want someone with expertise, whose style you agree with, and with a personality that you like. After all, once you hire a trainer, you'll be dealing with the end results for the duration of your dog's life!

Another general warning: don't expect any pet to respond 100 percent of the time - anyone who tells you that they can achieve perfect results is lying. Dogs make mistakes, too, so don't expect perfection from them any more than you expect from yourself.

WHAT DO YOU NEED?

The first step to determining what kind of trainer to hire is to determine what kind of training you want. But any good trainer should be able to handle basic training techniques, from obedience commands to socialization, problem-solving to specific training needs. For more specific training techniques (like competition agility trials), look for a trainer who has a record of success in the specific area you're interested in.

Group classes and individual sessions each have their place. While individual at-home sessions provide immediate interaction and feedback, class situations can really help with socializing your dog with other dogs and other people. In-home training also allows the entire family to work with your pet, whereas in group sessions, one person works with the dog during the class.

Whichever you choose, observe at least one session before committing yourself to anything.

BEGINNING TRAINING

For in-home training, you can start as young as 8 weeks old. Group classes generally require that the puppy be 4-5 months old in order to ensure that vaccinations are up-to-date.

NECESSARY EQUIPMENT

Training "equipment" is not expensive, and you won't need much. You'll need a simple nylon puppy collar, and a 6 foot cotton training lead.

Many trainers work with treats as rewards, but positive praise and making training fun can often be more effective. After all, if you want your dog to come to you before he runs out into the street and you don't have a treat on-hand, your dog won't necessarily respond! But each trainer has his own methods and the important thing is that you and the dog are comfortable with these methods.

Equipment you won't need includes spike collars and electronic shock collars. Be wary of trainers that recommend these techniques - see below.

FINDING A TRAINER

Finding a trainer can be a tough step, especially if this is your first dog. To find some options, check with people in your neighborhood who are knowledgeable in the field. This may include your veterinarian, breeder, groomer, pet supply stores, neighbors, other dog owners, dog rescue groups, local humane society, and local parks/recreation departments. Sometimes classes are offered through the school system as part of adult or continuing education. You may get a number of different names, and from there, you can start screening them. Try to get a few referrals for your prospective trainers. Obviously, the more feedback you get, the better your decision will be.

PERSONALITY COUNTS

When evaluating a prospective trainer, first there is the obvious criteria: is the person well-spoken with good manners? As with the hiring of any individual, these factors will convey some very basic but important ideas about the person. If the trainer is weak in any of these personal areas, look elsewhere. There is too great a possibility that the laxity in his own affairs will carry over to the training of your pet.

Circumstances should never be allowed to develop where a trainer hits, kicks, or physically abuses a dog. Sharp questioning on the part of the owner will help to weed out these so-called trainers as well as those who use electronic shock collars, prong collars and similar inhumane methods of dog training. A good trainer will know that such techniques are not only inhumane and unnecessary, but that they often create more problems than they solve.

If you do not like the overall personality of the trainer, then there is a possibility that the training experience will not be successful. A good trainer is not just training your dog, but is also teaching you to train your dog. They will be able to work with your individual personality, your dog's specific needs, and still maintain a flexible, positive and fun attitude. After all, if training your dog is tedious and exhausting, the dog will refuse to learn anything.

YOUR TRAINER'S EXPERIENCE

In many areas of the world, animal training is an unlicensed and unregulated industry. This leaves the door wide open for unqualified and fly-by-night companies. Since there is usually no governing agency, the consumer must take extra precautions, defined prior to any commitments.

Ask your trainer where they've gotten their experience, how long they've worked in the industry, under what circumstances they've worked, and for any credentials, if available. Good trainers will keep up-to-date on the latest behavioral research and techniques. Even if they don't agree with new techniques, they should certainly be aware of them and explain their views on the issues. If you're interested in more specialized training (like agility competition) make sure you get references from people they've worked with, and speak with them candidly about the trainer's personality, techniques and results.

While it's important for your trainer to have experience, even the best trainers don't know everything, so beware of the trainer who boasts that they can solve your problem no matter what it is. If you want to address a specific behavior problem, ask the trainer for examples of others with similar problems that trainer has helped resolve.

IS GENDER IMPORTANT?

It is important to remember that good training knows no gender, so whether the trainer is male or female should make no difference as long as the person is properly qualified.

However, there are times where the question of a male or female trainer is important. Generally, this is for owner-related psychological reasons. For instance, there are many totally female households. The dog's response to a six-foot tall man with a big booming masculine voice may not be enough to prove to the 110-pound woman that she, too, can achieve the same response. But frequently when a smaller-built person sees the dog responding to someone of his or her approximate size and weight, this provides the encouragement and incentive he or she needs to properly approach the dog's training.

If the dog was abused by someone in the past, it may be more skittish around someone of that gender.

Regardless, the trainer should know how to handle the situation, and be able to either assist you with it, or recommend someone who can.

Even after all of these precautionary steps, there is still no way of knowing for sure if an instructor is going to be exactly what you are looking for. Remember, you must like the trainer you are selecting. Any thorough trainer will want to teach the owners of the dog as well as the dog itself.

Above all, an owner must fully consider the far-reaching effects of this decision. It should not be taken lightly. Remember, the selection of a trainer can either make or break the dog, and the consequences of poor training will be something that you'll have to live with for the rest of your dog's life.

The Case of the Undersocialized Doberman...

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Sally and John obtained their Doberman pup, Jessie, from a breeder at the age of six months. The dog was the smallest of the litter and had previously been purchased by another couple who decided to bring her back to the breeder. Sally and John had owned another Doberman previously, but their first dog had run out into traffic and been killed at the age of five months. The couple wanted this new pet to be a good guard dog of course, but they also wanted her to be affectionate and playful.

Over the next few months, they successfully housetrained Jessie by crating her. Actually, the dog was crated every time the couple left the house. They taught her obedience commands on a sporadic basis. She was very good with "sit" and "stay,"not so good with "come" and "heel." They often had visitors who Jessie seemed to like with the exception of one person, John's accountant, who arrived to do the books once a month. On each subsequent visit, the puppy became more aggressive with this woman, until finally the accountant could not set foot on the premises because of the dog's hostile reaction to her. The dog didn't react this way to any other visitors.

The Analysis

1. Was the accountant ever alone with the dog? Could she have done something that mad the dog dislike her?
2. Is she fearful of Dobermans in general and showing it so clearly that the dog can sense it? What kind of body language is she using around this dog?
3. How do the owners react to the visitor? Are they nervous and tense about money, so that the presence of this particular person adds to an already stressful environment? Pets will pick up on these emotions.
4. Is there anything in the dog's background that would set her against this one person? Did the former owner (the woman who eventually gave her back to the breeder) or the breeder look like the accountant or perhaps even wear the same perfume? Were there any other similarities?
5. Does the accountant use any machinery that might frighten the dog? A noisy adding machine? A beeper to summon her to the office.
6. If all of the above reasons have been explored, we may have to dig deeper, since there is always a cause for behavior. Although the possibility may seem farfetched, maybe something is going on that one spouse doesn't know about, such as an affair between the husband and the accountant. The dog may be jealous and protective of her mistress if she knows something the woman doesn't.

The Cure

Jessie is clearly an undersocialized dog. The fact that she is always crated whenever the owners leave the house indicates that she's not trusted, and this attitude carries over to her behavior with other people.

The accountant is not a family friend - she only comes to conduct business. Therefore the couple's attitude toward her is undoubtedly cooler, and they don't waste time on chitchat or sitting down for coffee with her, as they would with a friend. It certainly would be helpful for the family to spend some time with the accountant while Jessie is present and act friendly toward her. If they treat her like a pal, the dog might eventually do the same.

It may also be a good idea for the accountant to meet the dog on neutral territory. The couple has encouraged Jessie to protect the house; therefore, it may be more difficult for her to react well on her own territory to an acquaintance who performs only a business function. The couple could bring a favorite ball or toy for this meeting in a local park or schoolyard and have the accountant and dog play together.

If the problem is the accountant's equipment, the cure might be to accustom the dog to the sound of the machinery. Sally and John could make a tape recording of these sounds, which they could play to Jessie, gradually increasing the volume every few days, or they could use the equipment themselves in front of her.

This behavior problem has to be stopped before it goes any further. In a case such as this, where a dog is developing aggressive tendencies, the symptoms are likely to magnify over time. First, she's aggressive toward certain people in the house; next, she might snap at anyone who comes near the cat. It's very important that Jessie be socialized now, with the couple and with anyone who comes in with them. The crate in which she has been confined should be removed (preferably when she is out of the room), and from then on, Jessie should be included in all of the family activities.

Finally, if all else fails, and if the accountant herself has difficulty acting at ease around the dog, the solution may be to keep her off the premises and let her work with the couple in her own office. To avoid allowing the situation to repeat itself, with every other newcomer in the household, Sally and John should make it a point to include Jessie and make her understand that the visitor is completely welcome.

The Well-Manicured Pet

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

...taking matters into your own hands!

You may be harming your pet and don't even know it.

Take a look at his toe nails. Are they long? Do you hear their clicking sound when your pet walks across a tile or wood floor?

If the answer is "yes," then you're putting your pet at risk. You see, unclipped nails can cause lameness, aggravate arthritis and hip dysplasia because your pets weight is not properly distributed on his paws.

You can't depend on that once a year trip to the vet to do the job. Imagine if you trimmed your own nails only once a year - they'd become pretty unmanageable, wouldn't they?

If more frequent trips to the vet or the grooming shop are hard on your pocket- book and busy schedule, there is a solution - do it yourself!

1) Buy a nail clipper designed for your type of pet - there are clippers designed specifically for cats and dogs. Some even come with guards on them so you can't cut off too much at a time.

2) Adjust your pet to having his feet touched. You'll need to work on this for a few weeks - so he's not pulling away and you're not wrestling with him. Build up a positive association using lots of praise, his favorite toy and treat. Let him think that when you handle his feet something wonderful is going to happen.

3) Show him the nail clipper each day for a week or so. Just leave it out so he can smell it and get used to seeing it.

4) Look at his nails. If they arc light colored, you'll be able to differentiate the nail tip from the darker area set further back where the vein is located. If his nails are dark colored, it's harder to know where to clip... but it can be done.

5) If you're nervous about it - and a lot of people are - just clip the very tip. After a week, the vein will recede and you'll be able to clip just the tip again. Continue cutting a little at a time each week until the nail is short enough. In other words, you shouldn't be able to hear those nails go click click click as your pet walks across a tile or wood floor.

6) Have a toe nail product on hand that stops the bleeding if you should accidentally cut too deep. These products are available at almost any pet counter. Yes, it hurts if you goof, the same way as if you were to break your own nail below the quick. But it quickly passes. Generally it looks worse than it is because there tends to be a lot of bleeding - hence the nail-bleeding product. Remember, even professionals will create a bleeding nail from time to time.

One final suggestion, if you're unsure of the techniques listed above, ask your vet or groomer to show you how to do it. Make no excuses, clipping your pets' nails is one of the healthiest things you can do for them!

Fun Things To Do With Birds

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Did you know that one in three American Families feed the birds? More than 65 million American Adults enjoy this colorful pastime and here are some fun things to do to encourage birds in your backyard.

Food and Feeders
• Put up nectar feeders for Hummingbirds and Orioles.
• Place a window feeder on your child's bedroom window for fun bird watching.
• Put out fruit and jelly feeders with jelly, orange and apple halves.
• Add a Jay feeder filled with peanuts and let Jays entertain you as they lift the lid to get a peanut.
• Use a trellis to grow flowering vines to attract Hummingbirds.

Water
• Add a source of water such as a birdbath, leaf mister, dripper or water garden to entice birds to take a drink.

Nesting
• Provide Suet Dough to help birds get extra calcium for egg-laying
• Put up nesting boxes for Wrens, Bluebirds, Chickadees, Titmice, Swallows and Purple Marlins.

Gardening
• Plant evergreens to provide the ideal cover for birds.

AA-CHEW! Allergies & Pets

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

If you suffer from allergies and are considering a first-time pet, there are some breeds of dogs and cats that are less apt to irritate allergies. Among dogs they are: poodles, terriers, Portuguese water dogs, Irish water spaniels and American water spaniels. Among cats, the Rex and many of the shorthair breeds tend to be less allergenic.

WHAT YOU CAN DO IF YOU ALREADY HAVE A PET.

Recently a study at the University of Wisconsin-Madison found that kids who spend the first year of their lives with a dog have a marked reduction in allergy risk. The study team believes that dogs somehow "pump up" the immune system.

But what if you already have one or more furballs in your household, and you or some other family member suffers from the discomforts caused by pet-related allergies? Take heart -- there are steps you can take in your home to minimize or possibly eliminate the allergic effects:

1. Vacuum your home daily using a Hepa filter, particularly the areas where your pets spend a lot of time in order to remove the pet hair and dander.

2. Wash your bedding and the bedding of your pet frequently.

3. If possible, replace curtains and drapes with blinds or shades. Heavy cloth drapes tend to attract and hold dander and pet hair.

4. The same holds true for carpets. Tile and wood floors are a good alternative.

5. Same for cloth or upholstered furniture. Leather or synthetic-leather look sofas and chairs are good alternatives.

I know what you're thinking,"Warren, I love my pet but I can't afford to redecorate my home!" Well, there are other steps you can take with your pet that can make a difference, too:

1. Using the proper coat conditioner and shampoo can help reduce the shedding and dander. Do not, however, over-bathe your pet. Contrary to popular belief, bathing your pet too often can actually dry out his skin and coat - actually increasing the dander your pet produces.

2. Have other non-allergic members of the family brush your pet regularly. This will remove loose hair and dander. Recently, 'pet wipes' have appeared on the market to help remove loose hair and dander.

3. Proper diet can go a long way towards reducing shedding and dander -- especially if your pet's coat and skin are dry. There are dietary supplements made specifically for pet that can help put natural oils back into your pet's coat.

In addition to hair and dander, many people who are allergic to cats are actually allergic to the cat's saliva and the way cats constantly groom themselves could create a major problem.

In the past, many allergy suffers were advised or forced to give up their beloved pets. But by following the steps I outline along with your physician's advice, your & your loved ones won't have to miss out on the joys and rewards of being owned by a pet.

Guide to a Healthy Happy Parrot

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Ideas contributed by members of the Parrot Fanciers' Club - Dennis Cleary, Dennis & Lisa Umstead, Diana Baker, Barbara Engle, Karen Feller, Carol & Elise Mayo.

Ask your vet to do a mixed culture of your parrot. (Culture of the cloaca & throat.) One lab fee instead of two. Infection can be treated with just one antibiotic.

Certain types parts of avocados are POISONOUS. Don't take the chance with your birds' life. Do not give avocado to any parrot.

Give your bird yogurt, plain or with fruit, to eliminate foul smelling droppings.

Toasters, toaster ovens, nonstick pots & pans, space heaters, irons, breadmakers, ironing board covers, selfcleaning ovens may contain PTFE, (Teflon) which emits poisonous gases when heated and can kill your birds.

New carpeting has formaldehyde. Air out before installing. Send birds to a "safe" home for a few days.

Scented and unscented candles may contain lead wicks.

Pampered Chef Cookware may be hazardous to your birds. (Unable to receive definitive answer from them.)

Birds can handle lower temps of 60-65 degrees, if acclimated properly.

Beware of drafts more than cooler temperatures.

Birds require 8-12 hours of "daylight." Use artificial or full spectrum lighting, such as Ott lights.

To stop bleeding, scrape toes or beaks on candles or soap bars if flour or Quik Stop is unavailable.

Birds may drown in toilets, dishpans or in pots of room temp or hot water. Keep lids on all portals of water.

Be aware of swooping eagles or hawks when your birds are playing outdoors. They could become prey.

Create "Homing" conditions for a lost bird, such as gently talking to your bird. Use favorite phrases, such as "Come to Mom," "Want Food", "I Love You". Crinkle cellophane. Reminds them of chips and snacks. Sit outdoors, acting cool & calm, calling your bird by name.

Beware of loose threads, as in towels, shirts, Happy Huts. Toenails can get easily caught. Bird can panic and chew off toes.

Stress can bring out illness such as psittacosis or Psittacine Beak & Feather disease. Introduce birds calmly, into new situations.

If you have a new or sick bird in your home, clean & feed the well birds first.

Quarantine birds for a minimum of 30-60 days, to prevent spread of disease.

Kale, collard greens, spinach, broccoli, peas, cherry tomatoes, carrots, corn & beets are nutrious for your birds.

Give fruits such as oranges, banana, grapes, figs, pears, apples, cran & blueberries. (Beware of the apple seeds.)

Birds also enjoy a variety of foods such as fish, chicken, spaghetti and sauce, brown rice, rice pudding, chickpeas, steak & pork chops. Birds enjoy chewing on well-cooked chicken & steak bones.

Droppings may change color with the ingestion of brightly colored foods, such as beets or blueberries.

Serve as a treat: Crushed hard-boiled eggs & shells, with frozen peas & carrots. (Shells contain nutritious calcium.)

When using the selfcleanng cycle of your oven, it is best to remove the birds from the home. If this is not possible, place birds in the basement, sealing the door with a damp towel. Open all windows. Clean oven on a cool, breezy day.

"Feeding Your Pet Bird" (A good book to read.)

Cauliflower can cause gas. Limit amounts given to your bird. Scrambled eggs, mixed with milk, is OK to give to your birds.

Many thanks to the members of PFC for their ideas.
www.ParrotFanciersClub.com
www.ParrotClubs.com
Phone: 631-956-0015
Parrot Fanciers' Club
P.O. Box 128,
Amityville, N.Y. 11701
ParrotAdoptions@aol.com
Compiled by Lisa Umstead

HANDFEEDING

This article was written to help those who find themselves in a situation where they are forced to handfeed. Please do not purchase an unweaned baby because of the damage that might occur. You may contact the author, Lisa Umstead, at Haikina@aol.com

Handfeeding chicks is rewarding, but it does involve commitment and training. It is recommended that the breeder only sell fully weaned babies or that the baby is down to one feeding a day, and even then with many hands on lessons.

The nursery can be set up in any temperature controlled room, separate from family activities that are free from cigarette smoke, cooking fumes, perfumes, hair sprays and other aerosols.

The nursery must be kept warm until the bird grows enough feathers to regulate its own body temperature. The temp for a newborn should be approximately 94 degrees and gradually decreasing to 72 degrees as full feathering occurs. Humidity should average in excess of 50%. If the chick is panting, decrease the temperature. The brooder should be set up several days in advance, to assure the proper temperature setting. It is advisable to check the temperature daily, by keeping a digital thermometer within the brooder.

When the chick is born, it is best housed in a dark, quiet environment. A small container with safe bedding material such as thick paper towels is preferred. (Home Depot & Costco sell a great absorbent blue shop paper towel.) Pine shavings is also a safe alternative. Find an incubator such as Joe Freed's Pediatric Nursery, with a removable door and separate drawer to add water, which is very convenient. A soaked paper towel, in a cup, can also be used to add humidity. The Pediatric Nursery is made of molded plastic and cleans easily. The temperature is easily controlled.

I find that when the chicks are small, it is easy to keep them in a small bowl, graduating to a dishpan that is easily removable and can be conveniently relocated to a counter or table when the birds are to be hand fed. Have two containers available, and as the babies are fed, you can transport them to the clean container.

Housing clutchmates together encourages socialization. Placing a small, soft stuffed animal in the container acts as a comfortable surrogate mother. For those who don't have a precontrolled incubator, a fish tank with a heat source such as a light bulb or a heating pad, placed under the tank, lined with a towel can be used. It is important that these improvisational methods be surveyed so as not to overheat and burn the babies.

Chicks are uncoordinated and splay their legs when attempting to walk. Until they are weaned, they sit on their hocks instead of their feet. Nestlings have relatively little muscle mass and a large, protuberant abdomen. The muscle mass increases as the bird ages. Chicks have a flesh-pink colored skin, which should feel warm to the touch. Feathers first appear on the wings & head, then tail, followed by feather emergence on the rest of the body.

The crop is a sac-like enlargement of the esophagus that holds the food, after swallowing, before it moves down to the gastrointestinal tract. Hungry chicks display a feeding response consisting of rapid, thrusting head movements, bobbing up and down. Touching the side of the beak or stroking the jaw can start the bobbing.

I remove my timneh chicks from the parents at 2-3 weeks, after they have been banded. I have a fear of the parents mutilating the babies as they might try to remove the bands. At this point, I feed the babies every 2-3 hours, around the clock. Each species, being a different size, will take in a different amount. A timneh at this age could take in 5-8 cc's at a time. A new batch of formula must be made up at each meal. Do not save formula. Bacteria could grow and cause harm to the baby.

For newborns, I use bottled or sterile water in the formula. I prefer the Kaytee Exact Handfeeding formula. Pretty Bird also makes a nice mix. Zupreem has just formulated a new handfeeding mixture, which I will be using on my next set of babies. Zupreem was nice enough to donate several bags. (These formulas come in 5-pound bags and can be purchased at a reasonable cost from Dennis Cleary, of ABSeed, who can be reached at CageCleanr@aol.com Pet stores sell the formula in smaller cans, but it can be expensive in smaller quantities. Do not add vitamins to the formula. The manufactures have perfected their formulas and this process should not be interfered with. The formula must also be of the right consistency. Not too thick or thin.

Your bird will let you know what it likes. Once you start with one formula you should try to stick to it. Switching brands might interrupt the smooth feeding process if the baby doesn't like the taste of the new formula. I start by mixing such a small amount in a med cup, then graduating to a baby food jar, then small glass, as the babies grow. I feed with O-Ring syringes that can be obtained from Birds' Nest Specialties - Toymaker@BirdsNestOnline.com. These syringes are reusable, very rarely stick, and seem to last forever. They are inexpensive selling from $.65 for a 5CC to $2.00 for a 60 CC syringe. The babies are to be fed from their left side, with your right hand, as you are facing the bird, directing the syringe, inside the cheek. Do not force. The baby will taste the food and start bobbing, taking the food down smoothly, (Hopefully.)

When the chicks are about 5-6 weeks, I add in some strained sweet potatoes or peanut butter just for taste. Imagine if you ate french fries 24 hours a day. It might get boring. At approximately 7 weeks of age you can start letting them taste cheerios or a cut up grape. The baby won't know what to do with it, but he can play with the food and eventually start chewing. Weigh your baby daily, at the same time each day, with the crop empty. When the babies are small, use a bowl, lined with a paper towel. Place the empty bowl on the gram scale. Reset or tare to zero. Then place the baby in the bowl and weigh. This will record the proper weight, which should increase daily by a 5-10 grams. Babies grow rapidly and should reach their peak at about 8 weeks. Chicks should be fed about 10% of their weight daily and gain about 15 % of their body weight daily. When it is time to be weaned, the baby will actually drop weight. This is normal, but keep a close eye on the baby to make sure too much weight is not lost. Also use a chart, recording the amount of each feeding. By keeping track of the weights this will ensure that the baby is growing at a proper rate.

As I feed, I keep checking the temp. If it cools down to under a 100 degrees, the babies most likely will reject the feeding and it needs to be heated up again. Placing the feeding container in a bowl of hot water can raise the temperature. Do not use the microwave since this could cause "hot" spots, which could severely damage a newborn's crop. Crop burn is very hard to repair. The tissue gets eroded and the food leaks through the crop as the bird is fed. It is hard to suture and the baby can die a slow, painful death. The normal feeding response closes off the trachea and prevents aspiration of the formula into the lungs.

There are other ways to feed, such a gavage feeding, which many breeders use when they have a lot of babies, which involves inserting a feeding tube into the crop and injecting the food. An amateur should definitely not try this method, since the wrong movement of the tube could seriously injure the baby. Babies can also be fed by molding a spoon and pouring the formula gently down their throats. This method could be very sloppy and time consuming.

You can tell when it's feeding time by observing the crop. When it's flat, then it's time to feed. Or when you hear the babies crying, it's a sign that they want to be fed. You want to make sure that they are not overfed. As you feed, you will notice the crop growing. Most likely, a baby will start to drool when it has had enough. Do not force feed. If I'm handfeeding 3 babies, and I know that a baby should be taking 35 cc's at a time, but isn't, I'll take a break in between and feed the others, then come back to baby # 1. Use a separate syringe for each baby.

I rinse the syringe in a separate glass of hot water when I refill. I actually prefer the feel of a 10 cc to a 20 or 30cc syringe and would rather refill 4 times. Of course for a macaw, it is quickly graduated to a 60 cc syringe. When the syringe is filled, hold it upside down and push the air out. This ensures that the baby gets only food, not air. Inject the formula towards the back of the throat, with a slow steady pressure. If the syringe hesitates, remove from the mouth and remove the clot by ejecting back into the cup. Sometimes, if the formula is mixed with cool water, the formula gets too thick and blocks the tip of the syringe. If you try to clear the syringe, while it is in the baby's mouth, you could drown the baby with the force of the clot. You can observe the crop, noticing when it gets full.

Do not over feed. Each baby's metabolism could be different. While one baby's crop could remain full for 4 hours, another crop could be empty after 2 hours. A feeder must have plenty of time and be observant. By letting a feeding go too long, a baby may become insecure. It is not fair to feed at 8-hour intervals, when you know a baby needs feedings every 3-4 hours. Wipe the beaks off with a damp paper towel, and swab out the beak with a q-tip. Any extra food caught in any crevices might grow bacteria.

After each feeding, clean the syringes then sterilize them in a solution of Chlorhexidene or Novasan, soaking them in this solution continually, between feedings.

Soak the digital thermometer in a disinfectant, rinsing before each use.
Rinse disinfectants off all implements before use.
Store open formula in a sealed container, in the freezer.
Mix fresh formula at each meal.
Use a separate syringe & feeding container for each chick.
Change bedding at each feeding time. It is helpful to have two separate containers, so that the babies can be easily transferred with a minimum of stress.

Please do not purchase an unweaned baby because of the damage that might occur

This article was written to help those who find themselves in a situation where they are forced to handfeed. You may contact the author at Haikina@aol.com

When It's Time to Say Goodbye

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

One of the most difficult moments for anyone who's ever been owned by a dog or a cat is saying the final good-bye to your four-footed best friend. I don't think it ever gets any easier, no matter how many pets you've had or how many times you have to go through it.

Knowing when to put sweet Fluffy to sleep is an incredibly hard decision to make. Sometimes the choice is mercifully made for us - Fluffy simply falls asleep one night and doesn't wake up in the morning. When death comes to a resting pet, we can at least take consolation in knowing that it was painless and that Fluffy died with dignity.

If Fluffy's been battling illness or the ravages of old age, it's very hard to know when it's the right time to take that final trip to the veterinarian. Here again, the key word is dignity. I always let that be my guiding light. I want all my pets to spend their remaining days on earth with their dignity intact, enjoying some quality of life. Once I know that's no longer possible, it's easier to come to terms with doing what must be done. It's what I'd want for myself. It's the least I can do for them.

Make your own decision when you think the time has come. Don't let others convince you. You'll know when the time is right. Base your decision on only one thing - what's right for her. Don't extend her time because you just can't bear to see her go. She lived life as a smart and clever little creature. She doesn't want her final days to be any less than that.

Please don't feel foolish if you grieve. You may even need to take off a few days from work. Not everyone will understand your sense of loss over a pet - especially people who have never been owned by one. Their feelings are of no consequence; it's a pity they've never experienced the special type of loving relationship you had with your precious pet. Grieving is a normal, healthy reaction the loss of a beloved family member. And wasn't Fluffy a member of the family? Realize that you're not alone with those feelings. Millions of people have grieved over the loss of their four-footed pals.

If you find the pain is too great to bear yourself, contact your local humane society. Almost every area has a support group to help owners through these difficult times. You'll be able to talk about your feelings and share your stories. You'll remember all those funny little antics of hers. You'll remember all the love she gave you, asking nothing in return for herself. And, yes, you'll even manage a smile or two.

So, "Good-bye, dear Fluffy. No matter how much time passes, I'll never forget you. You'll be in my heart always and forever, I love you."

Choosing a Pet

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Every year, thousands of families purchase or adopt a new pet. Every relationship that develops between human and animal has a unique quality, a special bond that links them.

Too many people enter into this new relationship with little thought for the new pet coming into the household, and, indeed, how the new pet will change the family structure and perhaps necessitate some personality changes on their own part.

It is absolutely vital to match the type of pet and the personality of the pet with that of the family -- if you haven't picked the right one, everyone may be miserable. How do you decide which pet is right for your family? Read about the type of pet you want: there are organizations for birds, fish, frogs, dogs, cats -- even rats have their own club. The Internet can be a great tool if you use it carefully.

Expectations - The entire family needs to sit down and discuss the pro and cons of the type of pet they're considering. If Mom hates spiders, you may want to think twice about a tarantula. Decide what you want to get back from the pet -- you may love your guppies, but you can't take them on vacation with you.

Educate - It's very important to speak to people that you trust about any type of pet: e.g., Are there certain dogs and cats that people with allergies can have? Check with pet specific organizations like the local reptile or rodent society.

Cost - Some pets are not only costly up front, but care and upkeep can run into the thousands.

Life span - How long will this pet live? Dogs 10-15 years, cats 15-20 years and some parrots 100 years, while some of the small rodents only live 2 to 4 years.

Pet Poisons

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

TOP TEN PET POISONS OF 2008

Is your pooch cuckoo for chocolate? Does your kitty like deep conditioning treatments? Sadly, not everything we love is good for us. In fact, many common household goods that we take for granted as harmless can be disastrous for our furry friends.

In 2008, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in Urbana, IL, handled more than 140,000 cases of pets exposed to toxic household substances, including insecticides, cleaning and beauty supplies and prescription medications.

Don't leave it up to Fido or Fluffy to keep themselves safe. Below is a list of the top ten pet poisons that affected our furry friends in 2008.

HUMAN MEDICATIONS
For several years, human medications have been number one on the ASPCA's list of common hazards, and 2008 was no exception. Last year, the ASPCA managed more than 50,000 calls involving prescription and over-the-counter drugs, such as painkillers, cold medications, antidepressants and dietary supplements. Pets often snatch pill vials from counters and nightstands or gobble up medications accidentally dropped on the floor, so it's essential to keep meds tucked away in hard-to-reach cabinets.

INSECTICIDES
In our effort to battle home invasions of unwelcome pests, we often unwittingly put our pets at risk. In 2008, our toxicologists fielded more than 31,000 calls related to insecticides. One of the most common incidents involved the misuse of flea and tick products - such as applying the wrong topical treatment to the wrong species. Thus, it's always important to talk to your pet's veterinarian before beginning any flea and tick control program.

PEOPLE FOOD
People food like grapes, raisins, avocado and certain citrus fruit can seriously harm our furry friends, and accounted for more than 13,500 cases in 2008. One of the worst offenders - chocolate - contains large amounts of methylxanthines, which, if ingested in significant amounts, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst, urination, hyperactivity, and in severe cases, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors and seizures.

RODENTICIDES
Last year, the ASPCA received approximately 8,000 calls about pets who had accidentally ingested rat and mouse poisons. Many baits used to attract rodents contain inactive ingredients that are attractive to pets as well. Depending on the type of rodenticide, ingestions can lead to potentially life-threatening problems for pets, including bleeding, seizures and kidney damage.

VETERINARY MEDICATIONS
Even though veterinary medications are intended for pets, they're often misapplied or improperly dispensed by well-meaning pet parents. In 2008, the ASPCA managed nearly 8,000 cases involving animal-related preparations such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, heartworm preventatives, de-wormers, antibiotics, vaccines and nutritional supplements.

CHEMICAL HAZARDS
In 2008, the Animal Poison Control Center handled approximately 7,500 cases of pet exposure to chemical hazards. A category on the rise, chemical hazards - found in ethylene glycol antifreeze, paint thinner, drain cleaners and pool/spa chemicals - form a substantial danger to pets. Substances in this group can cause gastrointestinal upset, depression, respiratory difficulties and chemical burns.

PLANTS
Common houseplants were the subject of nearly 6,500 calls to the Animal Poison Control Center in 2008. Varieties such as azalea, rhododendron, sago palm, lilies, kalanchoe and schefflera are often found in homes and can be harmful to pets. Lilies are especially toxic to cats, and can cause life-threatening kidney failure even in small amounts.

HOUSEHOLD CLEANERS
Everybody knows that household cleaning supplies can be toxic to adults and children, but few take precautions to protect their pets from common agents such as bleaches, detergents and disinfectants. Last year, the ASPCA received more than 4,000 calls related to household cleaners. These products, when inhaled by our furry friends, can cause serious gastrointestinal distress and irritation to the respiratory tract.

HEAVY METALS
It's not too much loud music that constitutes our next pet poison offender. Instead, it's heavy metals such as lead, zinc and mercury, which accounted for more than 3,000 cases of pet poisonings in 2008. Lead is especially pernicious, and pets are exposed to it through many sources, including consumer products, paint chips, linoleum, and lead dust produced when surfaces in older homes are scraped or sanded.

FERTILIZER
It may keep your grass green, but certain types of fertilizer can cause problems for outdoor cats and dogs. Last year, the ASPCA fielded more than 2,000 calls related to fertilizer exposure. Prevention is really key to avoiding accidental exposure, but if you suspect your pet has ingested something lawn-side, please contact your veterinarian or the Animal Poison Control Center's 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435.

From ASPCA Animal Poison Control - click for Original Article

Toxic Plants

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

[ Click here for the Non-Toxic Plants list ]

This list from the ASPCA contains plants that have been reported as having systemic effects on animals and/or intense effects on the gastrointestinal tract.

Please note that the information contained this plant list is not meant to be all-inclusive, but rather a compilation of the most frequently encountered plants.

If you think that your animal is ill or may have ingested a poisonous substance, contact your local veterinarian or the ASPCA 24-hour emergency poison hotline directly at 1-888-426-4435.

Click a plant name for more information.

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

Iris

J

K

Kalanchoe

L

M

Macadamia Nut

Madagascar Dragon Tree

Marble Queen

Marijuana

Mauna Loa Peace Lily (aka Peace Lily)

N

O

P

Q

Queensland Nut

R

Red Emerald
Red Lily
Red-Margined Dracaena (aka Straight-Margined Dracaena)
Red Princess
Rhododendron
Ribbon Plant (Dracaena sanderiana)
Rubrum Lily

S

T

V

W

Y

How to Make the Perfect Fish Tank

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Warren Eckstein chats with MSNBC.com about keeping pet fish. Chat questions were answered on the phone through a typist. This is the transcript of that phone call. Chat producer Will Femia moderates.

MSNBC Will
Ok, I'm here with pet expert Warren Eckstein. I have a pile of fish questions so let's get started. Welcome back Warren :)

Warren Eckstein
Good to be here :)

Question from Paul:
I bought an "African Knife" fish, which is the coolest looking thing I've ever seen, but it always hides in the back or behind the filter. How do I get it to swim around more? Is it my own fault for having too many hiding places in the tank?

Warren Eckstein
Very often when you add a new fish to an aquarium and there are many places for them to hide, they will hide in those places. One of the things I recommend is to change the aquarium monthly, get rid of some hiding places and make some new ones. Fish like those changes anyway, and this will help your new fish.

MSNBC Will
Is it unhealthy to make no hiding places at all?

Warren Eckstein
They do need their escape routes and places too hide. But like anything else, if they become to comfortable with a certain area, it becomes an obsession with them. That applies not just to fish but to dogs and cats as well.

MSNBC Will
My frogs do that as well now that you mention it.

Question from Tom Vukelich:
We have a 20 Gal tank and this spring we have a great deal of trouble with Algae. It is not "on" the plants and gravel it seems to be in the water, more like a "cloud". We have cut back on feeding and kept it out of the sun the best we can, any other thought? we condition water and it has been tested and ph levels are OK. The water comes from a well of 210 ft, maybe a treatment? we use the filter you 'prefered' in the segment on weekend today.

Warren Eckstein
First, the increased algae can be caused by the temp of the water being too high or too many fish in the tank. What you may want to try is an undergravel filter as well as the whisper filter you're using. Probably the most important thing is that in every town or city is an aquarium society, the reason I mention this is that depending on where you live, there may be some things in your water, so checking with the people in your area, either the aquarium society or even a local university to find out if they know of anything in the water that is increasing the algae growth.

Question from Vince Flores:
I'm going to be shopping for an aquarium soon. How much should I anticipate for the cost of a 30 - 50 gallon freshwater setup including the fish and which type of fish do you recommend??

Warren Eckstein
Ball park we're saying maybe 100-200 dollars. I would set it up as a community fish tank. What I would do is... you should go according to your own preference of course, but when you go to the store, ask which fish are top fish, bottom fish, and middle fish so that when you set up the aquarium, all of the water is covered by fish. I would also say it's better to start with less than more. The rule of thumb is no more than 1 inch of fish per gallon of water. At the beginning, common sense dictates that the fish should be approximately the same size. If you're going to get the type of fish that are school fish, always buy a minimum of 3 or 4, never just 2 or 1.

Question from Ernie:
I've been using sinking pellets to feed my Cory and Plecco fish, and now I have algee in there that looks kind of like grass. Could the food have caused the algee?

Warren Eckstein
Absolutely. Basically, whenever you're using the type of foods that float to the bottom, it's important you use a gravel vacuum more frequently, and more frequent water changes, taking the water from the bottom when you change about 20% a month minimum.

Question from Ernie:
Also, I like the look of the algee, and it stays under control as long as I keep scraping it off the glass. Is there anything wrong with letting it live in the tank or should I try to kill it off or get one of those algee eating fish?

Warren Eckstein
I would recommend an algae eating fish. Some algae may not be that detrimental, but it tends to eventually overtake an aquarium. And if you like the look, I recommend some live plants, which may help control the algae problem.

Question from Perry:
A while ago I bought a snail, which died pretty quickly and was soon eaten by the fish in the tank. The strange thing is that now I have little snails in there. Really little, like pebble size. They're really neat. how can I encourage them to grow?

Question from suzie:
how do you get rid of snails?

Warren Eckstein
In terms of the small snails, they will grown on their own, there's nothing you have to do to encourage them. In terms of the other snails, just remove them from the tank, I'm not sure there's a better answer than that. LOL!

Question from Jlively:
Are there any live plants can be used that fish will not eat?

Warren Eckstein
There are certain live plants, and this is where you have to work with your aquarium person very closely. Trial and error is really the only way to find out which plants your fish won't eat. Eating small amounts of plants is not necessarily a bad thing (unless you're a plant) :) I prefer a mixture of live and plastic, not one or the other.

Question from GregJ:
i'm interested in extremely low maintenance aquaculture .... is there a truly biospheric tank?

Warren Eckstein
The best all around biosphere type tank would be a reef tank. They're relatively expensive to start up, but if you think of it, it's kind of like an entire ecosystem that works off each other. If you have the financial ability, it's probably the most beautiful tank you can set up.

MSNBC Will
That's salt water right?

Warren Eckstein
Yes. The mechanics of the reef tank are very similar to a small town water purification system. The mechanical end circulates the water, which you don't have in any still tank.

Question from Rio:
I was recently at a fair where there was a guy selling a tiny frog in a small tank with a plant in it. He called it a complete ecosystem because the plant would eat the waste and make oxygen in the water. All it needed, he said was occasional food for the frog, and to be topped off with distilled water. Is he full of it?

Warren Eckstein
If it sounds too good to be true, chances are.... ;)

Question from P.M.:
Id like to put a few fish in an outdoor above ground pond, together with a few plants - what can you recommend?

Warren Eckstein
Various types of goldfish, koi fish... the only problem that a lot of people run into with outdoor ponds is predators, like cats or raccoons, so make sure it's predator proof as well. You lucky person, it's great for meditating. Just try to start with fish of equal size.

Question from Alex:
I don't find my fishtank relaxing to watch at all. I have a male swordtail that picks on the others in the tank, even though these are supposed to be community fish. I end up getting stressed out watching him attack everyone. Sometimes I catch him in the net and leave him in there just to restore peace to the tank. Is there a way to teach him to be nice?

Warren Eckstein
It's kind of what we said earlier, they like to swim in groups, so if you only have one, it might be more apt to attack. The resolution might be to add more swordtails to your tank. They are schooling fish, and generally they're mellow, so try adding more to the tank, and have a glass of wine. :)

Question from CorollaGTS:
how big does a fishtank have to be to support a dogfish?

Warren Eckstein
A dogfish is a type of shark. Again the rule of thumb is one inch of fish per gallon of water. A dog fish is big, so you're talking about a big tank. The other thing I would recommend is that the tank is mentally stimulating for the fish.

Question from Jeff:
I have a big catfish whose eyes are starting to look cloudy. Is that a symptom of him getting big an old or is that something I can treat? He seems to function ok as far as eating and swimming goes.

Warren Eckstein
It's probably something that you can treat. It's real important that you do testing for Nitrites, Ph, Ammonia, and you might want to add some stress coat to the water.

Question from Craig:
i have over 60 lbs. of live rock in my tank, neatly stacked and landscaped, is it realistic to just leave the rock in its original place ? reason I ask is becaue of the critters i have in there ( cleaning crew ) i.e. emerald crabs, blue leg hermits, would be in danger of being crushed if i move the rocks for cleaning etc...

Warren Eckstein
The rocks are fine. Again I would recommend a good vacuum to keep them as clean as you can. I would not move the rocks either if you're afraid that they'll crush the animals.

Question from Jessica:
It seems like I put a lot of chemicals into the water. Ph up, tap conditioner, stress coat, some kind of bacterial drops (brown liquid), de-chlorinator... am I doing more harm than good with all these products?

Warren Eckstein
Stop trying to recreate Chernobyl. :) I honestly believe that many people use way too many treatments for their water. Test your water once a week, and only add what you need to keep the water stable. More people kill their fish by adding chemicals. Also remember that quick changes can cause shock to the fish, so any changes you make should be very gradual.

Question from Craig:
but what about the potential of the substrate behind and under the live rock, wouldnt the filth spike the amonia, etc...

Warren Eckstein
Yes, it's possible that it could spike the ammonia, but I wouldn't make the change until that starts to happen. Monitor it closely, and if you see any changes you'll have to make a decision at that point.

Qeustion from suzie:
do albino frogs need any special care and do they mix well with other fish?

Warren Eckstein
It can mix with other fish, one of the real important things though is to make sure the tank is out of direct sunlight or you'll fry your frog. And I would recommend more than one. Take the size of the frog into consideration with the size of the fish.

MSNBC Will
As a general rule, is it ok to mix species like that?

Warren Eckstein
It's hard to make a blanket rule on that. I've had some real surprising pairings. Some species are more compatible, but that's not even a guarantee. For example, sometimes turtles and fish can do well together in an outside pond, but in a tropical tank, I wouldn't recommend them being together.

MSNBC Will
We're running past our half hour. Warren, can you give us some general words of wisdom before we have to let you go?

Warren Eckstein
Aquariums are fun and healthy, however, they're not low maintenance. If you want a healthy aquarium, ask a lot of questions and become very friendly with your local pet store. I always stress the fact that when you set up the aquarium, speak to someone who's going to be there week after week because he's going to know the local water conditions and how the fish react. A fish or aquarium should not be an impulse buy.

MSNBC Will Thanks very much Warren, always a pleasure having you. :)

The Case Against Crate Training.

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

When you were growing up, did your friends have dogs? Were these dogs housebroken and generally well-behaved? Odds are the answer is, "Yes". Then I ask you, were these dogs kept in cages? Odds are your answer is "Never!".

Several Years ago a new phenomenon emerged among dog trainers called "crate-training". As far as I am concerned, "crate-training" is simply a euphemism of keeping a dog in a cage.

Crate-training (I'm going to refer to it as "caging" from here on), was touted as the perfect solution to the problem of housebreaking. And it was. After all, dogs kept in cages didn't have access to their owner's homes and carpets.

Caging relies on the fact that our dogs are clean by nature and won't soil where they have to sleep or stay. But caging never teaches a dog how to be housebroken. In essence, it's an avoidance technique which doesn't address the task of housebreaking.

You don't know how many calls I get from people who have caged their dogs fro housebreaking purposes but don't know when they can trust Fido enough to let him out of the cage.

For years, responsible professional breeders have cage-trained their dogs successfully. The operative words here are "responsible professional breeders".

First of all, these people know how to use cages effectively.

Secondly, good professional breeders devote their time to their dogs.

Being a professional breeder is a full-time job and breeders are generally there with their dogs for most of the day. Since they are there to supervise their dogs, breeders don't need to cage their dogs for hours on end.

This does not hold true for the average family. In the average household, both spouses work outside the home at least 8 hours a day. They also sleep approximately 8 hours. So far that's 16 hours that Fido will be in a cage. Add a couple of hours for shopping, errands and dinner out and you're up to 18 hours a day that the dog is confined.

Three-quarters of a day is too much time for any dog to be confined. If you say that your busy life won't permit you to devote more time to a dog, you're probably better off with a pet that requires less maintenance - like a fish!

In my over quarter-century of working with over 40,000 dogs, I've never used a cage. You won't find the use of cages for housebreaking in my dog training book How To Get Your Dog To Do What You Want: A loving approach to unleashing your dog's astonishing potential.

Instead, housebreaking is achieved by regulating your puppy's food and water intake, putting him on a regular walking schedule, watching your puppy for the tell-tale signs that he has to "go", and confining him in a small gated area (the kitchen is ideal) when you cannot watch him with a hawk eye.

By using gates, you can start off with a small area (sat 3' by 3') and when the puppy has shown he can keep that area unsoiled, you can gradually increase the area of his confinement. As housebreaking proceeds, you'll be giving your puppy more and more space. Your ultimate goal is to give your dog the entire run of your house. Gates afford you the flexibility of increasing the area of confinement - cages do not.

Don't get me wrong, crates (carriers) are important and every dog owner should have one - for transporting your dog. They afford your dog protection when he's in your car and you come to a sudden stop or, heaven forbid, if there's an accident.

And you'll definitely need a crate or carrier for Fido if you plan to do any air travel together. If Fido spends the vast majority of his day in a cage, he'll never have free run of the house.

Underscoring my belief is a recent study published in 1996 by the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association: Risk factors for relinquishment of dogs to an animal shelter:

"Dogs who spend most of the day in the yard or in a crate were at an increased risk for surrender to the shelter.
The study was not able to determine whether these dogs had been relegated to the yard or a crate as a result of behavioral problems or whether keeping dogs in these situations resulted in isolation from the family, with less attachment and less training, thereby increasing the risk of relinquishment."

I am seeing an increasing number of dogs who are under-socialized and, in some cases, actually aggressive. Kept in cages, these dogs don't have the opportunity to interact with people and other pets.

Another problem that's on the increase is coprophagy - stool-eating. Many a dog confined to a cage would rather eat his or her stool, than have to lie with it in a cage.

I've heard a few misguided dog owners say that Fido likes to sit in his cage. " He feels secure." What they are really telling me is that their dog is not secure in the home environment. The dog feels threatened unless he's caged!

Other advocates of caging say it gives the dog a place of his own. My dog Rio has his own bed in my bedroom, but nine times out of ten times he'd rather curl up and snooze on the living room floor - if that's the room I'm in. My home and my presence is all Rio needs to feel secure!

The so-called "experts" rationalize that cages are okay because dogs evolved from wolves and wolves have denning instincts.

To that I say dogs have been removed from their lupine ancestors for millions of years.

Dogs have been living with man for tens of thousands of years. Even the earliest cave paintings depict dogs as man's companions! We cannot take a dog into our human environment, treat him like a wolf, and expect him to respond like a human.

Our dogs are beloved family members and need to be treated as such. You wouldn't keep your child confined to his room for his entire youth and adolescence, would you? You'd have one maladjusted young person!

You want your child to be an active, full participant in your household and your life. The same goes for our dogs. And cages will never permit this to happen.

Choosing a Bird

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

With over 300 species in the parrot family, there is quite a large selection to choose from for those who are interested in pet birds. Warren Eckstein talks about what to look for when considering the right bird to fit your lifestyle and budget.

WHEN CHOOSING A bird, many people place tameness first on their list, some consider talking ability more important and still others value beauty above the rest. For whatever reason you'd like a bird, be aware that there is no bird that possesses all of these qualities.

CARING FOR YOUR BIRD

Bring each new bird for a pre-purchase exam by a qualified avian vet, and buy only from reputable vendors. Keep them in the largest cage possible, and make sure the bar spacing is such that they cannot get their head stuck. Providing natural branches for chewing and perches is also very helpful.

Keep water and food clean and sanitized - make sure you check this daily. Keep your blinds over your windows, otherwise your bird may fly into a window, and can hurt or even kill himself (this is the most common way that household birds die). Introduce new toys to birds slowly by first hanging them outside the cage so they can observe them for a while.

Wash your bird's cage weekly, and disinfect monthly. Provide an enriched environment by keeping your bird in an area of the home where family activities take place, introducing it to new toys frequently, and playing soothing music.

Be careful if the cage is too close to your kitchen: Using Teflon pans, or using the self-cleaning function in your oven, can kill any birds living in your home. The fumes from these are toxic to birds.

FEEDING BIRDS

One of the biggest mistakes that new bird owners make is to feed their bird just birdseed. While supplementing with seeds is fine, there is not enough nutrition to survive healthfully on birdseed alone.

What can parrots eat? Surprisingly, they can eat pretty much the same things as people: melon, cooked pasta, fruits, vegetables, cooked meats, cooked eggs, and fruit juice. The only things that you should not feed your birds are onions, anything chocolate, anything with caffeine and avocados.

HAND-FED VS. WILD

If tameness is high on your list of priorities, purchase a domestic, hand-fed baby bird. These babies are taken from the nest at approximately two weeks of age or the eggs themselves are placed in an incubator after they are laid. If incubated, upon hatching they are fed a liquid diet by syringe for the first 14 days every 2-3 hours, around the clock. As the chicks get older, they are fed less frequently until they are approximately 10 to 16 weeks old. At this age they are encouraged to eat on their own. Birds that are handled by humans from such a young age become very comfortable with humans, and are more likely to form a bond with them. The price of such a baby is higher - often as much as four times higher than the same species that was caught wild and imported into the country. The wild caught bird will have to be tamed, which requires a lot of time and patience; in the end your pet may never be comfortable with you and remain untamed.

Make sure that you buy your bird from a reputable breeder - a little preparation can go a long way (and take care of a lot of problems before they crop up later.)

TALKING

Talking or mimicking of sounds or voices is very popular with those who enjoy birds. There are, in my opinion, four top speaking birds: the African Gray Parrot, the Yellow Naped Amazon, the Double Yellow Headed Amazon, and the Blue Front Amazon. This is not to say that these are the only speaking birds. There are many other types of birds with great vocabularies, for example, the common parakeet. What I'm saying is that the four mentioned are the most likely to satisfy you if talking ability is on the top of your list.

There is an old saying: "The quality of an item is long remembered after the price is forgotten." This is true with birds as well as everything else. If you cannot afford a Yellow Naped Amazon that is a domestic baby and has been hand fed, then do not make the mistake of buying one that is old or has been abused or has had four of five different owners: a scared and untamed bird is much less expensive than the hand-fed baby. Instead, buy a smaller, less-expensive, domestic hand-fed baby bird such as a cockatiel that will give you the pleasant experience of a lasting friendship.

MACAWS

Native of Australia, these noisy, magnificent birds can fly at speeds up to 35 miles per hour and in captivity, macaws have a life span of up to 90 years. About 35 inches long, the feathers are bright colors, and the bill is very curved. Among the most expensive to buy, they are also some of the most rare - and illegally imported - birds in the world. The Hyacinth Macaw is the largest of all parrots.

Cockatoo ($1,000-3,000)
The cockatoo averages about 12-to-15 inches long. These parrots have feathers of white, pink, yellow, gray and black, but they all have a large, feathery head crest, and a curved bill. (Most people recognize this bird as the one on the '70s TV show, "Baretta.")

Cockatiel ($80-$200)
The cockatiel is smaller than the cockatoo, and the easiest to take care of. Generally, it's a gentle bird but if they do bite, their bite isn't that bad! Of all the birds, for the first time owner, I'd recommend a cockatiel as the best option.

Macaws
The biggest and most expensive birds.
* Hyacinth Macaw ($8-10,000)
* Blue/Gold Macaw ($1,000-1,500)
* Green Wing Macaw ($1,800-$2,000)
* Bluethroat Macaw (rare - only 300 breeding pairs - $2,000 each)

AFRICAN GRAYS

These are the best talkers in the bird family and can easily learn hundreds of words and other sounds. The African Gray Parrot has a life span of up to 50 to 65 years. The Congo African Gray Parrot is about 13 to 16 inches long and weighs about a pound.

There are two types of African Grays:
* Timneh (smaller, darker version $800)
* Congo (larger version $1,100)

AMAZONS

Mexican Redhead Amazon ($500)
The Mexican Red-headed is from Mexico and has bright green cheeks and a red head. Other than that its markings are typical of other Amazons - blue and red feathers under the wings, with occasional red and yellow markings on the tail, and a green body. At 13 to 15 inches long it falls in the middle of the Amazon size chart. Mexican Redheads are not the best of talkers. They do pick up some words but show a preference for whistling. They also tend to show great affection for the people they like. It's these people who tend to be the target of the parrot's vocalizations.

Red Lored or Yellow Cheeked Amazon ($900-$1000)
The Red Lored Amazon is primarily green. It has a red lore (forehead), yellow cheeks, and blue crown. The primary flight feathers are typically deep red and navy. Red Loreds are on the endangered species list, which means that imports are definitely illegal. Average length is 11 inches, and they seems to be easily trained. This Amazon is known for its steady, gentle nature. They are not as loud as other Amazons, but are also fair talkers. Red-loreds have one of the highest ratings as far as loyalty and affection for their people, and a playful outgoing personality.

Parrotlettes ($150-$500)
Native of South America, these diminutive parrots often have a feisty, courageous nature that belies their tiny size. The beak is quite large in proportion to the body. They can mimic talking, but the voice is very small and sometimes it is difficult to recognize words. Natural sounds are very pleasant chirps. While they are hearty birds, they must be supervised at all times when out of the cage. They tend to like to hide sometimes behind cushions, which can have obviously dire results if you are unaware of where they are at any given moment. They can be quite willful, so train these birds the same way you would a larger Amazon parrot. These are tiny parrots and can't come out of their cage.

Keeping your dog safe & happy when moving house

2010-06-01T23:01:00Z

Moving house is as stressful for your dog as it is for you, but careful planning will help to soften the trauma.

Involve your dog in the packing-up as much as possible. Don't lock him away, but keep him among the family so he can see what's going on. Keep to his normal routine as much as possible, maintaining his schedule of walks and keeping his food dish in its normal place.

If at all possible take your dog to the new home before moving day. Let him sniff around and become familiar with his soon-to-be new home, both inside & out. By walking with him and talking to him in a positive manner as he investigates, you will convey a sense of security. If you express anxiety or apprehension, he will almost certainly be quick to pick up on it.

If a "preview" of his new home is out of the question, on moving day follow the procedure in the preceding paragraph. No matter how busy you may be with the movers and the boxes, it's important to take the time to introduce the dog to his new surroundings. Place his food and water in an area similar to where it had been at the old premises. Provide him with something to play with. Give him lots of extra hugs for reassurance, and all this will help him to feel settled.

It is advisable to keep a close watch on your dog, especially when he is outside, for a few days after moving. It will often take a few days or weeks for him to become accustomed to his new environment. Keep to his routine as closely as you can, and make sure he has his new address on his collar.